Native to much of the Eastern United States, B. australis is a legume and can fix nitrogen in the soil. Commonly called blue false indigo, the name Baptisia is derived from the Greek word bapto, which means to dip or dye. Early Americans used the plant sap as a dye similar to, though weaker in strength than, the true indigo plant native to the West Indies. There are other species of Baptisia with white or yellow flowers.

Although a bit slow to establish, B. australis forms a neat, shrub-like plant, reaching about 3-4 feet in height and spread upon maturity. The 12-inch, upright stalks of purple-blue flowers rise high above the bluish-green foliage in May/June. Depending on the weather, the flowers last about three weeks and are followed by interesting seedpods that turn black as they mature and dry. The handsome pea-like foliage makes an excellent filler plant for other flowers after the blooms fade.

B. australis adapts well to dry, low-fertility soils and also thrives in well-drained, tended garden beds, yet neatly stays where planted. The plants perform best in full sun but will tolerate some shade, although the stems will be a bit floppy.

Although the plant does not divide or transplant well, the mature seeds can be used to start additional plants. Fresh seed germinates relatively quickly; stored seed is slow and less successful. Mature seeds should be collected just as the pods split open. Remove the seeds from the pods and sort to discard those that have insect damage. Place seeds in hot (not boiling) water and let soak for 24 hours. Pot up the soaked seeds in good quality soil mix, or plant directly in a protected location in the garden.

PPA selects a different perennial plant each year to promote throughout the nursery and gardening industry. Members of the PPA are invited to nominate plants based on several criteria, including low maintenance requirements, adaptability to a wide range of climates, pest and disease resistance, wide availability, multiple seasons of interest in the garden and ease of propagation. A PPA committee then narrows the field to 3-4 choices from which the members cast their vote.

For more information, visit perennialplant.org.

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette.

2010 Perennial of the Year The Saturday Evening Post

Keep in mind that most houseplants are outdoor plants in their native climates. Tropical and subtropical species can be damaged by temperatures below 50 F, but being too warm in winter can also be a problem.

Warm indoor temperatures coupled with low humidity can cause plants to lose water faster than they can take it up. So, even though the soil may hold plenty of moisture, the leaves may begin to droop or turn brown along the edges. (Hot, dry, stale air also creates a favorable environment for spider mites to become troublesome.)

The most effective way to increase RH for the comfort of both plants and people is to run a humidifier. Grouping plants together on pebble trays filled with water can also help. However, misting plants occasionally with a spray bottle adds such temporary moisture that it does not effectively change the relative humidity. Keep all plants away from hot air drafts near heat registers. Ferns are especially sensitive to dry air, so take care to place them in a protected area.

Although some plants may grow more slowly during the short days of winter, dry air can cause them to need to be watered even more frequently than when they were actively growing. Monitor the soil moisture to be sure that plants are getting watered as needed.

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette.

Parched Plants The Saturday Evening Post

Check water levels in cut flowers daily.

Check stored produce and flower bulbs for rot, shriveling or excess moisture. Discard damaged material.

Most houseplants require less water in winter months because growth is slowed or stopped. Check soil for dryness before watering.

Move houseplants to brighter windows, but don’t place plants in drafty places or against cold windowpanes.

Early blooms of spring-flowering bulbs can make good gifts for a sweetheart. Keep the plant in a bright, cool location for longer-lasting blooms. Forced bulbs make poor garden flowers and should be discarded as blooms fade.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Choose appropriate species and cultivars of plants, and begin drawing landscaping plans.

Cut branches of forsythia, pussy willow, crabapple, quince, honeysuckle, and other early spring-flowering plants to force into bloom indoors. Place the branches in warm water and set them in a cool location.

Check mulches, rodent shields, salt/wind screens and other winter plant protection to make sure they are still in place.

Prune landscape plants, except early spring bloomers, which should be pruned after flowers fade. Birches, maples, dogwoods and other heavy sap bleeders can be pruned in early summer to avoid the sap flow, although bleeding is not harmful to the tree.

Fruit trees also should be pruned now.

GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)

Order seeds before it’s too late for this year’s planting. (Check out the sources we love.)

Sketch garden plans, including plants to replace or replant crops that are harvested in spring or early summer.

Prepare or repair lawn and garden tools for the upcoming season.

Start seeds indoors for cool-season vegetables so they will be ready for transplanting to the garden early in the season. Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage seeds should be started five to seven weeks prior to transplanting.

Test leftover garden seed for germination. Place 10 seeds between moist paper toweling or cover with a thin layer of soil. Keep seeds warm and moist. If less than six seeds germinate, then fresh seed should be purchased.

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette.

January Notes: Home, Yard, and Garden The Saturday Evening Post

But what most people think of as the flowers are actually colored bracts or leaves, which surround a small, yellowish-green structure that is the true flower.

Today’s poinsettia is much improved from the poinsettia of years ago, thanks to plant breeders. Although red is still the most popular color, pink-, salmon- and white-colored bracts are also available. Even speckled pink, red and white bracts are now available in cultivars, such as Jingle Bells and Monet. Even more recent on the scene are those with variegated green and yellow leaves, bracts that have sharply pointed lobes that resemble holly leaves and a few that have ruffled bracts.

New cultivars tend to have a greater number of large flowers on more compact plants. Poinsettia trees are also popular as are hanging baskets. Like many other florists’ plants, dwarf poinsettias can be found that pack a lot of color in a small package.

Extend the Beauty
The long-lasting nature of today’s poinsettias can only be enjoyed if they receive the proper care in your home. The best way to extend their beauty is to match, as closely as possible, the conditions in which they were produced. Poinsettias are raised in greenhouses where cool temperatures can be maintained between 60 F and 75 F with high relative humidity and high light intensity.

These conditions will be difficult if not impossible to match in the home. Natural light intensity tends to be quite low and of shorter duration in the winter. And as we heat the air indoors, the air becomes drier so that relative humidity often drops below the level of plant and people comfort.

Make the most of the situation by placing your plant near a sunny window, but do not allow the foliage or flowers to contact cold window glass. Artificial light may be needed to extend growing periods. A humidifier will increase both plant and people comfort. Grouping plants together on a pebble tray will help raise humidity around the plants themselves. Both hot and cold drafts can cause leaf drop, so avoid placing plants near doors or heating vents.

Both under- and overwatering can decrease the life of your plant. Plants that are allowed to wilt will begin to brown along the edges of the leaves or may drop leaves entirely. Watering too often will prevent proper aeration of the soil, and roots will begin to die and decay. Poinsettias should be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. If your pot was wrapped in foil, be sure to poke a few holes through the bottom to allow water to drain away.

And if you’re giving a poinsettia as a gift, be sure to protect it from frigid outdoor temperatures during transport. If you make your purchase from a florist or other supplier, be sure they wrap your purchase. Get the plant from the store to your car as quickly as possible. Preheat the car beforehand to prevent further chilling injury. Plants left in an unheated car can be injured or killed quickly, so drop the plants off at home before running other errands.

Poisonous Plant?
The poinsettia is often listed as a poisonous plant; however, there is no scientific evidence to support this conclusion. Even in studies where rats were fed poinsettias, the rats showed no evidence of poisoning. Some people are sensitive to the milky sap in the plant and may develop a skin irritation if they are in contact with that sap. It is always best to keep plants out of the reach of children and pets.

For more information, visit urbanext.illinois.edu/poinsettia/index.cfm.

B. Rosie Lerner is an extension consumer horticulture specialist at Purdue University.

Poinsettia Pointers The Saturday Evening Post

HOME (Indoor Plants & Activities)

• Check houseplant leaves for brown, dry edges, which indicate too little relative humidity in the house. Increase humidity by running a humidifier, grouping plants or using pebble trays.
• Place holiday plants, such as poinsettias and Christmas cactus, in a cool, brightly lit area that is free from warm or cold drafts. This will help extend their lifespan.
• Move plants closer to windows, but avoid placing foliage against cold glass panes. Houseplants may not receive adequate light because days are short and gloomy. Artificial lighting may be helpful.
• Water less. Because growth slows or stops in winter months, most plants will not require as much moisture and little, if any, fertilizer.

If you are forcing bulbs for the holidays, bring them into warmer temperatures after they have been sufficiently pre-cooled. Bulbs require a chilling period of about 10 to 12 weeks at 40 F to initiate flower buds and establish root growth. Pre-cooled bulbs are available from many garden suppliers if you did not get yours cooled in time. Then, provide two to four weeks of warm temperature (60 F), bright light and moderately moist soil to bring on flowers.

YARD (Lawns, Woody Ornamentals, and Fruits)

• Prevent bark-splitting of young and thin-barked trees, such as fruit and maple trees. Wrap trunks with tree wrap, or paint trunks with white latex (not oil-based) paint, particularly on the south- and southwest-facing sides.
• Protect shrubs, such as junipers and arborvitae, from extensive snow loads by tying their stems together with twine. Carefully remove heavy snow loads with a broom to prevent limb breakage.
• Protect broad leaves, evergreens or other tender landscape plants from excessive drying (desiccation) by winter sun and wind. Canvas, burlap, or polyethylene plastic screens to the south and west protect the plants. Similarly, shield plants from salt spray on the street side.
• Provide winter protection for roses by mounding soil approximately 12 inches high to insulate the graft union, after plants are dormant and temperatures are cold. Additional organic mulch, such as straw compost or chopped leaves, can be placed on top.

GARDEN (Flowers, Vegetables, and Small Fruits)

• Protect newly planted or tender perennials and bulbs by mulching with straw, chopped leaves, or other organic material after plants become dormant.
• Store leftover garden chemicals where they will stay dry, unfrozen and out of the reach of children, pets, and unsuspecting adults.
• Once the plants are completely dormant and temperatures are consistently below freezing, winter mulch can be applied to protect strawberries and other tender perennials. In most cases, 2-4 inches of organic material, such as straw, pine needles, hay, or bark chips, will provide adequate protection.
• Check produce and tender bulbs in storage, and discard any that show signs of decay, such as mold or softening. Shriveling indicates insufficient relative humidity.
• Clean up dead plant materials, synthetic mulch, and other debris in the vegetable garden, as well as in the flowerbeds, rose beds, and orchards.
• Order seed catalogs, and make notes for next year’s garden.

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette.

Winter HOME Work The Saturday Evening Post

Seeds need to be kept cool, dark, and dry so that they retain stored carbohydrates and minimize fungal infection. You can keep the seeds in their original packets to preserve their labeling information. If you transfer the seeds to another container, be sure to label them with at least the plant name and the year the seed was purchased. Either way, be sure the seed is as dry as possible before placing in storage.

One of the more practical methods for storing small quantities is to place leftover seed in sealed jars or other airtight containers and store in a cool, dark area such as the refrigerator (not the freezer). A layer of powdered milk or uncooked rice at the bottom of the container will absorb excess moisture. Use a paper towel to separate the seed from the absorptive material.

These days, many seed packets only contain a few seeds so the germination test may be a moot point! On the other hand, many seeds are pricey, so saving even a few seeds can make a big impact on next year’s gardening budget.

The following chart listing storage life for common garden species will help you decide which seeds are worth the trouble. However, the conditions in which the seeds are stored dramatically affects how well they will germinate next year, as much or more so than their species.

** Hill Gardens of Maine,
hillgardens.com/seed_longevity.htm

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette, Indiana.

Save the Seed! The Saturday Evening Post

Keep on mowin’
Lawns need mowing as long as the grass continues to grow—some years continuing through most of the fall. Newly planted flowers, trees, and shrubs should be watered thoroughly every week or so, right up until the ground freezes, especially if rainfall is lacking. Perennials, trees, and shrubs all continue to lose water through the winter, so you want them to go into dormancy with plentiful moisture.

No leaf left behind
Fallen leaves should be recycled, either where they fall or transferred to another spot. Dry leaves can be mowed to bits, gathered for use as winter mulch, or raked to the compost pile. Small leaves such as honey locust may be left as is, but larger leaves such as oak and maple should be shredded to speed decomposition and prevent smothering.

Don’t prune out
Trees and shrubs should be assessed, but fall pruning should be restricted to removal of only dead or damaged limbs. Save major pruning chores for late winter.

Don’t be a fool, clean your tools
Winterize your gardening tools as freezing temperatures become the norm by first giving them a thorough cleaning. Those steel wool scrubbing pads sold for cleaning barbeque grills are great for removing caked-on soil from shovels, hoes, trowels, and spades. Scrub the blades and handles with soap and water, and allow them to dry completely before storing. Rub a little linseed oil or similar protector over wood handles to keep the wood from drying and splitting.

Be the sharpest in the shed
Sharpen your tools now to ensure a quick start in spring when your gardening enthusiasm returns anew.

Drain water from garden hoses and sprinklers, and hang them to dry before coiling the hoses for storage. Hoses left outdoors during the winter are likely to crack and split, especially if they still have water inside. And while you’re at it, now is a good time to replace washers and repair leaks while they are fresh in your mind.

Caution: hazardous material
Rinse and dry your fertilizer spreader and oil moving parts. Pesticide sprayers should be rinsed and allowed to drip dry before storing. The best way to dispose of unused chemicals in the sprayer is to apply the product as directed on the label. Allowing pesticide to sit in the sprayer over winter will result in clogged hoses and nozzles and will be more difficult to clean after the fact. Store unused pesticides in their original containers with the label intact. Place all pesticides away from children’s and pets’ reach in either a locked cabinet or a storage shelf at least 4 feet off the ground and protected from both freezing temperatures and excessive heat.

Winterizing the lawnmower
When you are fairly certain your lawn has seen its last mowing for this season, it’s time to winterize the mower. Check local service providers for those that offer mower winterization or use the following checklist to do it yourself. Check the owner’s manual for your specific machine before you start.

—Drain or stabilize the fuel. You can either run the mower until it is out of fuel, or fill the tank and add a stabilizer product. If choosing the latter, run the mower for a few minutes after adding the stabilizer to allow it to reach the carburetor.

—Change the oil and dispose of used oil properly. Your local recycling center or solid waste management district office can advise.

—Clean the blades/mowing deck. Scrape off caked-on debris using a barbeque scrubber; use thick leather gloves to protect your skin from cuts.

—Charge the battery. If your machine uses a battery, charge it now and repeat periodically through winter.

—Lubricate moving parts. Check owner’s manual for specifics.

—Change plugs and filters and sharpen blades. These can wait until spring, if preferred.

Ah, now it’s time to enjoy some well-deserved R&R curled up next to the fireplace with your favorite gardening book!

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette, Indiana.

No Leaf Left Behind: 7 Yard-Prepping Tips for the Season The Saturday Evening Post

Composting is a naturally occurring process that breaks down organic materials into an excellent soil amendment that improves soil structure, as well as adds some nutrients. Composting recycles your garden wastes, improves your soil, and reduces disposal costs.

All organic materials will break down eventually, but gardeners can speed up the process with good management. The basic ingredients for successful composting include organic materials and microorganisms with the proper balance of carbon, nitrogen, water, and oxygen.

What Goes in the Pile?
Good candidates for composting include end-of-the-season garden plants, pulled weeds, grass clippings, tree leaves, and plant trimmings. The smaller the particle size, the faster the organic materials will break down—chopped or shredded plants will compost more quickly. Some kitchen wastes, such as vegetable and fruit scraps and coffee or tea grounds, can also be added. These materials should be buried in the center of the compost pile to avoid attracting insects, rodents, and neighborhood pets.

Some organic materials are best left out of the compost pile because of possible health hazards or attractiveness to pests. Because of the danger of disease transmission, human and pet feces should not be composted. Meat scraps, bones and fats will likely attract unwanted visitors.

Backyard composters might do best to avoid materials heavily infested with weed seeds, insects and disease organisms. Although a properly managed compost pile should generate enough heat in the center to kill most of these pests, ensuring uniform heat can be difficult, particularly in a small compost pile.

Break It Down
Microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, are responsible for breaking down the organic materials in yard waste. Although commercially packaged compost starter is available, adding a little soil or finished compost will supply all the microbes you need for composting. Microorganisms require a proper environment to work efficiently.

Nitrogen is needed by the microbes in order to break down and use the carbon found in organic materials. The ratio of carbon to nitrogen in the compost pile will affect the rate of decomposition. If the carbon content is too high, decomposition will be slow. If the nitrogen content is too high, ammonia gas can be given off, creating foul odors. The ideal ratio for composting can be achieved by combining fresh green with brown dry materials, such as fresh grass clippings with dry tree leaves. At this time of year when there is likely to be an abundance of dry materials, you can add a little livestock manure or packaged fertilizer.

Do I Need to Water the Compost?
Water is also needed for efficient microbial action and uniform heating. Compost with optimum moisture content should resemble that of a moistened sponge that has the excess water squeezed out. Be prepared to the water the compost if rainfall is lacking.

Oxygen is just as important for efficient decomposition and to prevent foul odors. Breakdown occurs more slowly when oxygen is lacking and foul odors from fermentation will result.

How High Is Too High?
The center of a properly managed compost pile will generate heat as the microorganisms break down the organic matter. A good-sized compost heap, approximately 4-5 feet in diameter and 4-5 feet deep, should reach 130-160 F in the center. Turn the pile with a pitchfork or shovel at least once or twice a month to keep the materials supplied with oxygen and to bring outer contents to the center for heating. Small amounts of organic materials can be added to actively composting piles, but it’s best to start a new pile when compost becomes too tall to work by hand.

Compost can be ready to use in as soon as a month or as long as a year, depending on how well the pile is constructed and tended. Finished compost should look much like a uniform potting soil, with no indication of what materials originally went into the pile.

Compost can be used as a soil amendment in the garden to add some nutrients, but its primary advantage is that of improving soil structure. Adding compost increases water-holding capacity, aeration, and nutrient exchange sites in the soil.

Author B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette, Indiana.

Composting: What Every Gardener Should Know The Saturday Evening Post