Phlox, pansies, and bulbs like tulips and daffodils are sure bets for spring. Annuals like zinnia, cosmos, and moss rose and heat-tolerant perennials—blanket flower, coreopsis—are standouts in summer. In fall, try purple aster, ornamental kale, and sedum. And don’t forget about winter, when there are a plethora of show-stoppers, including Harry Lauder’s walking stick, hellebore, evergreens, and berry-producing shrubs (which bring colorful birds flocking).

2: Look beyond the living. Garden structures and ornaments are critical to a garden that sparkles year-round. Gazing globes, statuary, and other garden décor work wonders in adding color and interest in dark or sparse parts of the landscape.

3: Containers are key. Express your creative side with planters that celebrate the seasons. Stick to pastel palettes and cold-tolerant plants in spring. In summer, take inspiration from the tropics and switch out tulips and pansies with lush, colorful foliage like canna, tufted hairgrass, and Persian shield. Maple Sugar hibiscus, strawflower, and dwarf grasses are fall favorites, while dogwood twigs and evergreen boughs ring in the holidays.

4: Plant annuals. Most gardens experience lean months, when the landscape transitions from one season to the next. Achieve continuous color with annuals. For the biggest impact, plant en masse. Large, thickly planted beds of annuals provide swaths of color that everyone will notice.

5: Evergreens and conifers are critical. Evergreens, such as boxwood, holly, arborvitae, and junipers look great throughout the year. During the growing season, they provide a backdrop for colorful annuals and perennials. But when the garden quiets in winter, they provide both structure and color. The same goes for conifers. Who can resist the graceful, snow-laden branches of a pine or spruce? And with so many colorful cultivars and dwarf varieties available today, there’s one for any yard.

6: Don’t forget about foliage. Ornamental grasses (fountain grass, blue fescue), dogwood, burning bush, deciduous trees like maples and white ash—all feature dazzling foliage that spans the seasons.

7: Provide good care. Continue to keep plants pest- and disease-free for a colorful show well past the growing season. Cut back spent foliage and deadhead spent blooms. The flush of color that most often follows is well worth it.

7 Secrets to Season-Long Color The Saturday Evening Post

Nothing lifts a winter-weary spirit like thriving, green houseplants, which help purify and improve air quality inside your home. However, even seemingly fuss-free plants can get the winter blues if not cared for properly. Here are some tips to keep them happy and healthy this time of year.

Set them up for success. Match your houseplants’ growing needs with their indoor environment. Most plants thrive in sun, so place them in a well-lit area, such as a windowsill, for 
a few hours a day. Flowering plants usually require even more light because the sun is less intense in winter months. Set plants with high-light requirements in bright windows, usually south- or west-facing.

Also, avoid placing houseplants near direct sources of heat (like a heating vent) or cold drafts (like a front door or drafty window).

Let them rest. Most indoor plants’ growth slows in the winter. It’s natural and means less work for you, since such plants require less care. Skip the fertilizer, and water only when the first inch of soil feels dry (roughly every two weeks). If your house suffers from low humidity in winter, lightly (and occasionally) spritz leaves with a spray bottle filled with lukewarm water.

Pampering makes perfect. To keep your plants looking good, moisten a soft rag with tepid water and wipe down leaves to remove built-up dust and grease. Spritz tiny-leafed plants with lukewarm water, which helps leaves better absorb light for photosynthesis and discourage pests.

Lastly, don’t use any plant shine products. They can impair a leaf’s ability to absorb light—critical to their overall health.

Amazing Asparagus

Hailed for its medicinal properties and considered a delicacy, asparagus is a well-known harbinger of spring.

The perennial vegetable takes up to 3 years to produce its delectable, edible shoots. It’s worth the wait: Not only is the plant productive, producing up to 15 years or more of quality produce, but asparagus is packed with vitamins K, A, and C, and a powerhouse of folate and potassium.

Lucky for us, green asparagus can be found at most food markets. Less common varieties, in white and purple hues, might be more expensive and difficult to track down: Look for these rarities in upscale grocers or farmers’ markets.

Perhaps the most attractive trait of asparagus is just how easy it is to prepare. Sautéed, roasted, blanched, grilled, steamed, or stir-fried, this early-season favorite is lovely by itself or when added to omelets, pasta, or salads.

So why wait? Enjoy this easy-to-make recipe today!

Notes from the Field: Winter Houseplant Care and Asparagus The Saturday Evening Post

Lucky for the renegade gardener, you don’t have to look far to find these special bulbs. That’s because the market has done an excellent job reacting to consumer demand for the delightfully unusual. Purchasing anything from Bulgarian ornamental onion to Grecian windflower is a snap with all the various mail-order catalogs and online storefronts at our fingertips today.

But with temperatures plummeting and the holidays just around the corner, planting is probably the last thing on most people’s minds. If you garden in the North, however, it’s literally “last call” when it comes to planting spring-blooming bulbs. That’s because, to put on one heck of an early season display, spring-blooming “hardy” bulbs must experience a cool, dormant period—about 12 to 16 weeks—to bloom. A good rule of thumb for northern gardeners is to plant bulbs six weeks before the ground freezes.

Southern gardeners, on the other hand, can plant hardy bulbs in early January after they’ve been chilled by artificial means, such as in a refrigerator crisper (take note, however, that gasses from ripening fruit can damage the bulbs). Or gardeners in these milder areas can look for bulbs bred to adapt to their short, temperate winters.
Here are some other basics that are good to know before you plant any bulb:

Plant bulbs pointy end up. While it may seem simple enough, planting bulbs upside down is an easy mistake. The pointed end is where the stem originates, while the root end is generally flatter and looks like the base of an onion. While a lucky few may break through the soil surface and bloom, more often than not, the plant wastes oodles of energy doing so, resulting in a lackluster display.

Plant at the appropriate depth. Large bulbs like tulips and daffodils should be planted about 6 and 8 inches deep, respectively. Plant crocus, hyacinth, and like smaller bulbs 3 to 5 inches deep. As for spacing, a good rule of thumb is to set bulbs three to four times their diameter apart. Be sure to give them a good soaking after planting!

Mulch. A couple inches of mulch, such as evergreen boughs, straw, or marsh hay, reduces the risk of early sprouting and other weather-related complications. Just be sure to wait until the ground freezes before applying.

Leave on fading foliage. Although it may look unattractive, it’s important to keep the leaves on the plants until they brown or at least 6 weeks have passed since  they bloomed. The leaves direct energy to the bulb, essentially feeding it, which is why you’re able to enjoy blooms year after year.

Plant in groups. While individual bulb blooms are beautiful unto themselves, there are ways to up the ante when it comes to impact. Best planted in groups of three or more, a mass of bulbs concentrates colors and creates a focal point that’s hard to ignore. The same can be said when bulbs are used as a ground cover, planted in border beds, or displayed as a “bouquet” in planters.

If planting a variety of bulbs, be sure to plant low-growing bulbs in front of taller varieties, especially if they bloom around the same time.

6 “Out-of-the-Box” Bulbs to Plant Today!

1. Allium (Allium)
‘Silver Spring’ has tiny white blossoms with pink-purple centers; ‘Fireworks’ has a distinct form that earns its namesake.

2. Grecian windflower (Anemone blanda)
Try ‘Mixed’ for daisy-like flowers in a variety of colors like blue, pink, and white.

3. Checkered lily (Fritillaria meleagris)
‘Saturnus’ boast reddish purple flowers, while ‘Charon’ has deep purple blooms.

4. Indian hyacinth (Camassia)
Plant ‘Blue Melody’ for impressive spikes of dark violet-blue flowers and variegated foliage.

5. Crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis)
Ranging in colors from scarlet red to yellow, its nodding, bell-shaped flowers rest beneath a “crowns” of stiff green leaves.

6. Species tulips (Tulipa)

Known for their uniqueness and ability to naturalize well, species tulips are the wild cousin of the hybrid variety. Try ‘Rockgarden Mixed Colors’ for an assortment of brightly colored blooms on short stems.

Also check out how to save bulbs.

Beyond Daffodils The Saturday Evening Post

Forget the long lines and parking wars at the mall … instead, cultivate your own handmade presents for the gardener in your life. You’ll not only save a bushel, but these gifts from the heart show that you really care. Here are four ideas to get your creativity “growing”!

1. Stepping stone kit.
Gather — in a bucket embellished with a festive ribbon — a premade mold, small bag of cement mix, and decorative elements like seashells, river rock, and colorful marbles or tile.

2. Pampering package.
Pick up a pair of quality gardening gloves, a bottle of luxurious lotion with an SPF of 30 or more, lip balm, and insect repellent made with natural botanicals. Then, neatly place the items into a wide-brimmed hat filled with raffia.

3. Beauty on the inside.
Nothing perks up the winter-weary soul like a blooming plant. Bringing bulbs indoors is an easy way to welcome spring early. In a decorative container, collect spring-blooming bulbs (paperwhites or daffodils are good choices) and a small bag of sterile potting mix. Attach a note with planting directions (e.g., bulbs must be refrigerated for 12 to 20 weeks before planting).

4. Holiday herb garden.
Repurpose pretty aluminum food cans —  check out imported goods like coffee or tomato sauce — into trendy containers for kitchen herbs. Make sure the container is large enough and add a couple of drainage holes into the bottom of the can to allow proper drainage. Plant them with pot-friendly herbs, such as sage, rosemary, thyme, basil, and chives.

Embellish cans with ribbon and attach a recipe that features that particular herb.

And a Cardinal in a Fir Tree

If you enjoy a real Christmas tree this year, don’t just cut it up or pitch it out after holidays — share it with your feathered friends! Winter can be a challenging time as backyard birds struggle to find food and shelter. Your old cut spruce or fir tree can offer both.

After you’ve removed all the holiday decorations, set the tree outside — right side up or on its side. It makes no difference to the birds. Place near a window so you and your family can enjoy the flurry of activity that’s about to ensue. Decorate your tree with dried sunflower heads, Indian corn, holly branches, wheat, and millet. Pinecones slathered with peanut butter and rolled in birdseed make pretty “ornaments,” while strings of dried cranberries, unsalted popcorn, or peanuts in the shell serve well as a garland the birds will go gaga over. Once spring arrives, run whatever is left of your tree through a wood chipper. Add the chips to the compost pile or use as mulch in the garden.

Safe Travels

When winter blows in, so do treacherous driving conditions — black ice, snow, low-visibility, and unexpected wind gusts. Ensure your odds of getting out of a jam safely by taking a few minutes to assemble a roadside emergency kit. AAA suggests you pack the following:

• Blankets
• Gloves
• Boots
• Hat
• Granola bars or MREs (Meals-Ready-to-Eat)
• Water
• Essential medications
• Ice scraper and brush
• Flashlight
• Shovel
• Jumper cables
• Flares or reflective triangle
• Traction material
• First-aid kit
• Knife
• Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
• Duct tape
• List of emergency contacts, medical conditions, and allergies

Notes from the Field: Gifts for the Gardener and more… The Saturday Evening Post

Anyone with a green thumb knows that mulching your beds is one of the best ways to ensure a healthy garden. An eco-friendly (and dollar-savvy) way to do so is to mulch with autumn leaves such as oak and maple.

First, rake up fallen leaves, making sure they are free of pests and disease. Then, if possible, run over them with a lawn mower before adding them to your garden in a 2- to 3-inch layer. This helps speed up decomposition and lets water and organic matter reach the soil below the mulch.

If you can’t shred your leaves first, just spread them around (not on top of) the perennials in your garden. They will break down over time, gradually delivering vital nutrients to your soil.

End-of-Season Garden To-Do’s

•   Release your inner artist. Create a rough sketch of your garden beds and landscape before plants go dormant. You can then refer to the drawing months later when planning next year’s garden. At a glance, it’ll remind you of plants that you want to replace and available open space.

•   Look for end-of-season sales. Browse the clearance aisle at your local garden center and stock up on supplies such as garden tools and containers.

•   Take care of your containers. Clean and neatly store containers so they’re ready for next season.

•   Forgo the fertilizer. It’s time for plants to slow their growth before winter sets in, so don’t encourage them with fertilizers.

•   Let’s split! Fall is a good time to divide and transplant any overgrown spring- or early summer-blooming perennials. Just be sure to prepare the new planting area first.

Q: What Is “Green Manure”?

A: Usually planted in fall, fast-growing green manure crops provide protection against soil erosion over the winter months and add organic matter that improves fertility.

“Green manure crops, with their deep root systems, bring up buried trace elements and hold them in their structure, then release them after the mature plants are tilled under and begin to decompose,” explains vegetable expert Glen O. Seibert (“The GreenMan”). “Legumes are often selected as cover crops because of their ability to fix nitrogen from the air and return it to the soil.”

Casting 101

•   Use a spin cast outfit because it is the easiest to learn.

•   Set up your line with weight or a practice plug.

•   Face the target area with your body turned at a slight angle, about a quarter turn.

•   Aim the rod tip toward the target, about level with your eyes.

•   Press and hold down the reel’s release button.

•  Swiftly and smoothly, bend your arm at the elbow,raising your hand with the rod until it almost reaches eye level.

•  When the rod is almost straight up and down, move your forearm forward with a slight wrist movement.

•  Gently sweep the rod forward, causing the rod to bend with the motion.

•  As the rod moves in front of you, reaching eye level, about the 10 o’clock position, release your thumb from the button. The bend in the rod casts the bobber and bait out.

You have just made a cast!

Fried Fish in Five Steps

Fried Fish
Illustrated by Niff Nicholls

1. Fillet fish, picking out bones and removing skin.

2. Rinse fillets with cool water, then pat dry with paper towel.Season with salt and pepper and dip into cornmeal or flour-based batter.

3. Season with salt and pepper and clip into cornmeal or flour-based batter.

4. Drop into smoking hot oil (about 385 F) and cook until golden. Peanut, safflower, corn, and vegetable oils are all suitable choices.

5. Remove and drain on paper towels. Season with salt if desired.

Notes from the Field The Saturday Evening Post

Spark a little magic among neighbors with an old-fashioned corn roast. Whether planning a barefoot affair or something more stylish, here are tips for the host:

Buy Fresh. If purchasing from a farmers’ market, ask if the corn has been picked that day. Otherwise, peel part of the husk back and prick a kernel using your fingernail. If it oozes a milky liquid, the corn is fresh.

Grow your own! Garden-friendly varieties include Peaches ’n Cream, Trinity, and Ambrosia.

For moist results: Soak an ear of corn, husk and all, in water for about an hour. Once the husk is fully penetrated, set directly on a medium-hot grill. Then cook, turning occasionally until the outer husk becomes brown and brittle, about 25 to 30 minutes.

Serve  with  the  fixings. Set out corny condiments such as shredded Parmesan cheese, seasoned salts, or butter infused with fresh herbs, hot sauce, or lime juice.

Spotlight on Sunflowers

Available in a dizzying array of sizes and colors, sunflowers are easy to grow and attract birds. But did you know that their seeds are packed with protein, healthy fats, fiber, vitamin E, and phytochemicals for you, too? It’s true!

To harvest these pint-sized powerhouses, allow the flower heads to dry in the garden. Just be sure to cover them with cheesecloth (or even nylons) so the birds don’t get to them first. You can tell that the seeds are ready for picking when most of the petals have dropped and the back of the flower head is brown. Cut the seed heads off and rub the seeds out by hand.

To eat, soak the seeds overnight in salt water (use 1/4 to 1/2 cup of salt per two quarts of water). Drain and dry on paper towels. Then roast them in a shallow pan at 300 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 to 40 minutes until golden brown.

Once roasted, sunflower seeds can be added to green salads, used in baked goods, or just eaten as a snack. Plus, they’re the perfect substitute for family members suffering from nut allergies.

Water-wise Gardening

Conserving water is good for the environment, plus it saves you time and money. Here are some smart watering practices to try today:

1. Group plants with similar watering needs. This reduces the likelihood of wasting water on neighboring plants that don’t need it.

2. Apply mulch. Doing so an inch or two around plants helps conserve soil moisture. Try organic mulches such as grass clippings or shredded leaves. Eventually, these break down and enrich the soil.

3. Avoid overhead sprinklers. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems instead. These devices deliver water right where it’s needed — around the plant’s root zone — and with less evaporation and runoff.

4. Select drought-tolerant plants: California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), catmint (Nepeta x faassenii), lantana (Lantana camara), snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum), and yarrow (Achillea millefolium).

Notes from the Field The Saturday Evening Post

Simply defined as creating bird-friendly habitats with the use of plants (preferably native) and other means, birdscaping is a technique that combines two of America’s fastest growing pastimes—birding and gardening.

“Gardening and attracting birds go hand in hand, as both involve working with your yard’s natural environment,” explains Heather Lamb, editor of Birds & Blooms magazine. “Birdscaping just means that you plan your garden with the intent of attracting birds. The outcome is a pretty garden alive with pretty songbirds.”

To successfully create a backyard that’s for the birds, you must know the basics required for their survival. Food, water, and shelter are the crux of any bird-friendly ecosystem. There’s a good chance you already have one or more of these elements in your landscape, so take inventory before getting started. Note any conifers, deciduous trees, berry-laden shrubs, nectar- or seed-producing perennials and annuals, birdhouses, or birdbaths. Build on existing plants and make a wish list of items you want to grow. Before putting anything in the ground, however, consider its mature size and care requirements.

Also, become familiar with the bird species that reside or migrate through your area. After all, you won’t find a western tanager in Connecticut, no matter how many orange halves you put out for it.

Set the table.

Birds, like humans, appreciate a good meal. “Feeding birds creates a connection with something beyond my control,” Lamb says. “I can provide the right seed, but I can’t make a goldfinch stop by to eat it. It’s a privilege, an unexpected gift that puts a smile on my face.”

Birds’ diets are diverse. Some prefer fruit, nectar, or sugar water. Others gobble up seeds, nuts, berries, buds, or insects. To optimize your chances of winged diners, offer a mix of native annuals, perennials, grasses, trees, and shrubs that provide sustenance.

Know when your plants produce fruit or go to seed. By incorporating picks that feed birds throughout the year—cherry in summer, sunflower in fall, hawthorn in winter—you ensure a four-season flurry of activity.

Set out bird feeders, which supplement nature’s bounty during lean times such as early spring (when migration is in full swing). Popular offerings include sugar water for hummingbirds and tanagers; live mealworms for bluebirds and American robins; orange halves for orioles; sunflower seeds for grosbeaks, jays, northern cardinals, and chickadees; and nyjer (thistle) seed for finches, pine siskins, and redpolls.

Give them shelter.

Cover is as important to birds as food. Backyard bird expert and author George Harrison recommends that “every birdscaped yard have both man-made and natural shelter. Man-made in the form of birdhouses, roosting boxes, and brush piles. But, more importantly, natural habitat—trees, shrubs, and ground cover into which birds can escape when threatened.”

Trees and shrubs provide protected nesting sites, a place to perch, and a safe haven from predators. Groupings of evergreens, thorny thickets, and ornamental grasses are adequate places for birds to hide from threats such as hawks and cats. Dense conifers also offer four-season refuge, and thick stands of shrubbery shield birds from cold, wind, rain, and snow.

“The best format for natural shelter is in the form of stadium seating,” Harrison explains. “Locate the tallest trees farthest from your favorite bird viewing window, the shrubs closer, and ground cover closest. This staging allows the bird watcher to view all the birds that use each of the natural niches, from the warblers and flycatchers in the tallest habitat, to the cardinals, blue jays, and chickadees in the middle, and the sparrows, doves, and juncos on the ground.”

Birds are careful when selecting a safe place to raise their young during breeding season. Conifers and deciduous shrubs and trees, even dead ones with knotholes or other cavities, are welcome spots. Plant a flowering dogwood tree and, chances are, an American robin will reward you with a clutch of sky-blue eggs in late spring.

Not all backyard birds use birdhouses, but many do. Bluebirds, Carolina wrens, tree swallows, nuthatches, purple martins, and chickadees are just a few of the species you may be able to beckon with a birdhouse. Before setting one up, though, learn about the nesting habits of the kind of birds you hope to attract.

Splish, splash! Put out a bath.

Want birds? Add water. Winged visitors of all kinds need it year-round for bathing and drinking. Suitable sources include backyard water features, small ponds, and even large-leafed plants that pool rainwater or dew.

Birdbaths are also a fine option. “Birdbaths don’t have to be fancy,” says Lamb. “A shallow dish or cake pan will do. In my yard, I use a saucer from an old terra cotta flowerpot.”

Regardless of the kind of birdbath you invest in, it’s important to clean it every few days with a stiff bristle brush. Then fill the bath with clean water no deeper than 2 inches. Position your birdbath near natural cover to give birds a place to flee should predators arrive on the scene.

A few more secrets—birds can’t resist flowing water, so add a fountain or include a small waterfall if installing a larger water feature out back. For those living in northern climates, a heated birdbath will be a popular spot for birds when winter arrives.

“Having a birdscaped yard gives us the opportunity to relate to the beautiful feathered animals that surround us,” Harrison says. “It’s emotionally rewarding to interact with nature at this intimate level in your own backyard.”

So while peonies, phlox, and petunias can make a garden pop, only birds can make it sing.

Bring On The Birds

Shelter-providing trees and shurbs:

• Fir (Abies species)
• Hemlock (Tsuga species)
• Juniper (Juniperus species)
• Manzanita (Arctrostaphylos species)
• Pine (Pinus species)
• Rhododendron (Rhododendron species)
• Spruce (Picea species)
• Viburnum (Viburnum species)

Fruit-bearing trees and shrubs

• American highbush cranberry (Viburnum trilobum)
• Cherry (Prunus species)
• Crabapple (Malus species)
• Dogwood (Cornus species)
• Hawthorn (Crataegus species)
• Mountain ash (Sorbus species)
• Serviceberry (Amelanchier species)
• Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)

Seed-producing Plants

• Bachelor’s buttons (Centaurea cyanus)
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
• Blanket flower (Gaillardia x grandiflora)
• Blazing star (Liatris species and cultivars)
• Coreopsis (Coreopsis species)
• Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)
• Globe thistle (Echinops ritro)
• Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium purpureum)
• Purple coneflower (Echinacea species)

Nectar-producing Plants

• Bee balm (Monarda didyma)
• Butterfly bush (Buddleia species)
• Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
• Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
• Columbine (Aquilegia species)
• Fuchsia (Fuchsia x hybrida)
• Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)
• Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans)

Landscaping That’s for the Birds The Saturday Evening Post

It’s a centuries-old horticultural technique with roots as far back as ancient Egypt. There, through faded tomb paintings of fig trees planted and flattened against sun-drenched stone walls, evidence suggests that espalier (ess-PAL’-yay) had a place in the garden.

Later refined by French monks in the late 1600s, this art of pruning and training trees and deciduous shrubs into stylized, flat patterns is as relevant to today’s green thumbs as it was back then. That’s because espalier offers a number of rewards that 21st-century gardeners can reap.

No one understands the benefits— and beauty —of espalier more than Peter Thevenot, owner of River Road Farms in Decatur, Tennessee. He tends to approximately 3,200 of these living works of art at all times. Thevenot’s intense passion for espalier began some 16 years ago after a visit to the vegetable gardens at the historic Mount Vernon estate in Virginia.

“Aside from the beauty and character espalier brings to any garden, these magnificent pieces of living architecture are part of our country’s gardening history and perhaps America’s best-kept secret,” Thevenot says.

“They boast practicality as well. Their architecture lends structure to the garden, and can define and separate outdoor rooms. Use them to accent bare walls or provide privacy as living screens.

“They are also ideal for small spaces because unlike a standard-size fruit tree, you can place an espalier plant in a 15-inch-wide garden bed. So someone living in a condominium or tending a rooftop garden can essentially enjoy a fruit orchard that’s no bigger than 4 feet tall by 5 feet wide.”

And who knew the ancient Egyptians were so “green”? After all, espalier plants require less chemical intervention than their larger counterparts. “Everything is in arms reach. If you need to use a pesticide, it’s just a matter of getting out a small spray bottle, as opposed to the harsher treatment a full-size specimen requires.”
So how exactly does espalier work? Here’s the short version: The pruning of unwanted branches directs energy away from from the plant’s vertical growth so it can focus on producing “spurs” or side shoots from the trunk.

“When you start cutting, the tree feels threatened, and it goes into survival mode,” Thevenot says. “Since its primary purpose in life is to reproduce, it reacts by producing more fruit and flower spurs per square inch available to it.”

No doubt this tough-love approach to pruning can be intimidating to some gardeners. “Get over your fear of cutting,” suggests Thevenot. “You’re not going to hurt the plant. Most anytime you cut a plant back, it encourages growth. It’s amazing how tolerant plants are to shearing or having their branches bent. At the nursery, for example, we start out with a young apple tree that’s no bigger around than your ring finger. The first thing we do is cut it back to 18 inches tall.”

Thevenot also encourages novice gardeners to become familiar with other living architecture found in garden design, including topiary and pleached plants. “Doing so creates awareness for something other than a flat of pansies or row of boxwood.”

Apple trees (Malus) are the most popular plants to espalier (Thevenot suggests Liberty, Gala, Arkansas Black, and Red Delicious cultivars), however; most any tree or large woody shrub is suitable for training. From fruit-producing fig (Ficus carica) and pear trees (Pyrus) to familiar, flower-laden ornamentals, such as crabapples (try Donald Wyman or snowdrift), magnolias (Magnolia grandiflora), jasmine (Jasminum), viburnum, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), and weigela (Weigela florida), the possibilities are only as limited as your imagination.

Many of these plants also provide four-season appeal. Take the crabapple, for example: In spring, it boasts beautiful boughs of white or pink blossoms before setting autumn ablaze with berry clusters and fantastic fall foliage. Even in winter, espalier plants have something to offer a stark landscape. “Espalier trees are most beautiful to me in winter. That’s the only time of the year when you can see their true form. The bare branches catch the snow and provide perches for winter birds,” says Thevenot, who strings Christmas lights along a candelabra form embellishing the entryway of his house. “My grandkids think it’s the neatest thing.”

Once you select a plant to espalier, choose a suitable location and pattern. A trellis, wood (or even chain-link) fence, or masonry wall all offer adequate support. You can also fashion espalier into freestanding forms such as privacy fences or domes. Equally as important to consider are your plant’s growing requirements —sun, soil type, drainage.

Espalier forms are as versatile as the plants you can choose to manipulate. Here are a few of the most popular patterns:

• Informal: A free-flowing design that takes its cue from a plant’s natural growing tendencies.
• Horizontal cordon: One of the simplest formal designs, it serves as a focal point, living fence, or screen. Horizontal branches may be single or multitiered.
• Fan: Used most often as a focal point, branches are shaped into a fanlike pattern.
• Candelabra: It’s impossible not to notice this dramatic form, as vertical rows of branches grow off a single horizontal trunk.
• Belgian fence: A complex lattice pattern, it visually breaks up large walls or acts as a see-through screen if created free form.

No matter what pattern or plant you select, the espalier experience is a deep one. “Gardening’s ultimate goal is to bring a sense of happiness and oneness with the earth,” shares Thevenot. “Because you have absolute control over an espalier’s architecture, you enjoy a personal relationship with it that’s unlike any other in the garden.”

Let’s get growing

Thevenot suggest that budding enthusiasts begin with the simplest for formal designs, the horizontal cordon

Step 1 Select a planting site, keeping in mind your plant’s specific growing requirements. Choose a location that offers support, such as a wall, fence, or trellis.

Step 2 Dig a hole for your plant that’s about 6 to 12 inches from the supporting wall or fence. This allows for proper air circulation and room for maintenance.

Step 3 Once established, shape the plant into the desired design by pruning unwanted lateral growth and bending young branches into horizontal arms. Secure to a trellis using soft string or twist ties. (Check periodically to make sure they don’t strangle the plant as it grows.) If attaching to a masonry wall, secure with 14- to 16-gauge wire anchored by 6- to 8-inch-long eyebolts driven into the wall.

Step 4 Prune a few times a year to keep your espalier looking tidy. Stop pruning eight weeks before the first frost is exprected to avoid damaging new growth.

Living Works of Art The Saturday Evening Post