Native to much of the Eastern United States, B. australis is a legume and can fix nitrogen in the soil. Commonly called blue false indigo, the name Baptisia is derived from the Greek word bapto, which means to dip or dye. Early Americans used the plant sap as a dye similar to, though weaker in strength than, the true indigo plant native to the West Indies. There are other species of Baptisia with white or yellow flowers.

Although a bit slow to establish, B. australis forms a neat, shrub-like plant, reaching about 3-4 feet in height and spread upon maturity. The 12-inch, upright stalks of purple-blue flowers rise high above the bluish-green foliage in May/June. Depending on the weather, the flowers last about three weeks and are followed by interesting seedpods that turn black as they mature and dry. The handsome pea-like foliage makes an excellent filler plant for other flowers after the blooms fade.

B. australis adapts well to dry, low-fertility soils and also thrives in well-drained, tended garden beds, yet neatly stays where planted. The plants perform best in full sun but will tolerate some shade, although the stems will be a bit floppy.

Although the plant does not divide or transplant well, the mature seeds can be used to start additional plants. Fresh seed germinates relatively quickly; stored seed is slow and less successful. Mature seeds should be collected just as the pods split open. Remove the seeds from the pods and sort to discard those that have insect damage. Place seeds in hot (not boiling) water and let soak for 24 hours. Pot up the soaked seeds in good quality soil mix, or plant directly in a protected location in the garden.

PPA selects a different perennial plant each year to promote throughout the nursery and gardening industry. Members of the PPA are invited to nominate plants based on several criteria, including low maintenance requirements, adaptability to a wide range of climates, pest and disease resistance, wide availability, multiple seasons of interest in the garden and ease of propagation. A PPA committee then narrows the field to 3-4 choices from which the members cast their vote.

For more information, visit perennialplant.org.

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette.

2010 Perennial of the Year The Saturday Evening Post

1. Improve your soil. Start with a soil test. In early spring, add organic fertilizers, lime, sulfur, and compost as indicated by the test results. Adding these amendments early allows them to break down before the plants really start to grow.

2. Use raised beds. Unless your soil is sandy, gardening in raised beds leads to better plant growth. Raised beds warm up faster and dry out more quickly in spring, and they also use less space. Learn how to build your own: “Raised Garden Bed: A Green Project for the Family,” from the Jul/Aug 2009 issue of The Saturday Evening Post.

3. Grow in containers. Containers are ideal for gardeners who only have a small deck or balcony to work with. Self-watering containers are productive and easy to use. Even if you have space to grow vegetables in garden soil, containers are especially good for raising specialty crops that may not do well in cool soils, such as eggplant.

4. Mulch, mulch, mulch. Organic mulches—hay, straw, chopped leaves, and untreated grass clippings—suppress weed growth, conserve soil moisture, and add nutrients to the soil. Wait until your seedlings are up and growing well, then place a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of mulch around them. In cold climates, preheat the soil with plastic mulches to give your garden a jump on the growing season.

5. Garden regularly. The best sign of a healthy garden is the gardener’s footprint. Even just 5 to 10 minutes a day is enough to be sure the plants are well tended and problems are noticed quickly and dealt with. Make it a habit to visit the garden at a scheduled time to pull weeds, pick mature vegetables, water thirsty plants, and check for pests.

6. Pick early; pick often. For many fruiting vegetables—e.g., tomatoes, peppers, beans, summer squash, and cucumbers—the more often you pick, the more the plants will produce. Even if your refrigerator is full, keep picking! You can always give extra produce away to a neighbor or donate it to a local food shelf.

7. Don’t stop planting. Once a crop is finished, don’t just leave the ground fallow. Instead, plant something! Succession planting allows you to keep the vegetables coming right into fall. For example, plan to follow a crop of bush beans with lettuce. When spinach plants go to seed, sow another bed of carrots. If a squash plant dies from disease or insects, yank it out and sow some greens.

Happy 2010 Gardening!

7 Garden Resolutions The Saturday Evening Post

Keep in mind that most houseplants are outdoor plants in their native climates. Tropical and subtropical species can be damaged by temperatures below 50 F, but being too warm in winter can also be a problem.

Warm indoor temperatures coupled with low humidity can cause plants to lose water faster than they can take it up. So, even though the soil may hold plenty of moisture, the leaves may begin to droop or turn brown along the edges. (Hot, dry, stale air also creates a favorable environment for spider mites to become troublesome.)

The most effective way to increase RH for the comfort of both plants and people is to run a humidifier. Grouping plants together on pebble trays filled with water can also help. However, misting plants occasionally with a spray bottle adds such temporary moisture that it does not effectively change the relative humidity. Keep all plants away from hot air drafts near heat registers. Ferns are especially sensitive to dry air, so take care to place them in a protected area.

Although some plants may grow more slowly during the short days of winter, dry air can cause them to need to be watered even more frequently than when they were actively growing. Monitor the soil moisture to be sure that plants are getting watered as needed.

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette.

Parched Plants The Saturday Evening Post

Check water levels in cut flowers daily.

Check stored produce and flower bulbs for rot, shriveling or excess moisture. Discard damaged material.

Most houseplants require less water in winter months because growth is slowed or stopped. Check soil for dryness before watering.

Move houseplants to brighter windows, but don’t place plants in drafty places or against cold windowpanes.

Early blooms of spring-flowering bulbs can make good gifts for a sweetheart. Keep the plant in a bright, cool location for longer-lasting blooms. Forced bulbs make poor garden flowers and should be discarded as blooms fade.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Choose appropriate species and cultivars of plants, and begin drawing landscaping plans.

Cut branches of forsythia, pussy willow, crabapple, quince, honeysuckle, and other early spring-flowering plants to force into bloom indoors. Place the branches in warm water and set them in a cool location.

Check mulches, rodent shields, salt/wind screens and other winter plant protection to make sure they are still in place.

Prune landscape plants, except early spring bloomers, which should be pruned after flowers fade. Birches, maples, dogwoods and other heavy sap bleeders can be pruned in early summer to avoid the sap flow, although bleeding is not harmful to the tree.

Fruit trees also should be pruned now.

GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)

Order seeds before it’s too late for this year’s planting. (Check out the sources we love.)

Sketch garden plans, including plants to replace or replant crops that are harvested in spring or early summer.

Prepare or repair lawn and garden tools for the upcoming season.

Start seeds indoors for cool-season vegetables so they will be ready for transplanting to the garden early in the season. Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage seeds should be started five to seven weeks prior to transplanting.

Test leftover garden seed for germination. Place 10 seeds between moist paper toweling or cover with a thin layer of soil. Keep seeds warm and moist. If less than six seeds germinate, then fresh seed should be purchased.

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette.

January Notes: Home, Yard, and Garden The Saturday Evening Post

Greenhouse growers have long used cold frames to harden off vegetable and flower seedlings. Transparent-roofed enclosures, built low to the ground and placed in a sunny location, cold frames are minigreenhouses whose tops can be opened, allowing new starts to acclimate before they are planted in the garden. But today’s home gardeners rely on them just as much to extend the harvesting season. Plants sheltered in a cold frame are protected from chill winds and rain. Solar energy captured through the glass or transparent plastic lid keeps the soil from freezing. With an inside temperature 7 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit warmer than outside, a cold frame environment simulates a growing location 300 miles farther south.

With a cold frame, gardeners may harvest cold-tolerant vegetables and greens for a month longer in the fall and enjoy crisp homegrown salads a month earlier in the spring. Some hardy plants such as Swiss chard can survive all winter in a cold frame if it is covered with a heavy cloth on the coldest nights.

Building a Cold Frame

Commercial cold frames range in price from $99 to more than $450 and are available from garden supply stores and over the Internet, through such Web sites as yardiac.com and thefind.com, among others.

But you can save money by using salvaged materials to build your own.

All you need is an old window frame for the top and some lumber. You can even use an old shower door—clear or frosted—for the top, which only needs to be translucent to allow solar energy to pass through and warm the soil below.

A cold frame can be any length, but limiting the depth to 4 feet or less can spare you from having to stretch when planting and harvesting.

Before you begin, find a proper location. Your cold frame should be placed in a south-facing spot that receives sun for most of the day. Up against a house, garage, or outbuilding is a preferred location, but simply setting one out in your garden patch will work.

Take care that the soil under your cold frame has good drainage. If you are unsure, dig down a couple feet and fill with gravel, then place a layer of soil over the stone.

For an early-spring crop, plant seeds directly in the cold frame in mid-January. When the soil begins to warm, the seeds will sprout. (For an early-winter crop, plant in late August or September.)

Prop the top open during the day to vent excess heat in spring and fall. You won’t need to vent in winter. Also keep the soil watered until freezing weather sets in. The soil under a cold frame will dry out more quickly than outside.

Cold Frame Plan

Illustrated by Niff Nicholls

Using a salvaged window 32″ x 26″

Materials:

• 2 8′ 1” x 6” pine boards
• 1 4′ 1” x 2” pine board
• 14 1½” exterior grade screws
• 16 1¼” exterior grade screws
• 3 2” hinges
• 18 1” exterior grade screws

Directions:

1. Cut 3 30” 1” x 6” boards and 4 24” 1” x 6” boards. Build 30” x 24” bottom frame. Predrill and screw sides onto front and back pieces with 2 1½” screws at each end.

2. Attach 2 10½” 1” x 2” braces to the inside back corner of the frame using 1¼” screws. Predrill and attach top back piece to the corner braces.

3. Place the top side pieces in position. Using a straight edge, scribe a line from the top of the back to the front bottom corner of the board. Cut each board on this angle.

4. Attach one angled board to the back and one through the tip into the bottom frame using 1½” screws. Attach a 9” 1” x 2” brace—made from the 4′ pine board— at the center of each side with 1¼” screws.

5. Place the window on the box. Position correctly and mark for the hinges. Predrill the hinge holes and screw the top, using 1” screws, into place.

Garden All Winter Long The Saturday Evening Post

So, too, will you enjoy the simple pleasure from this recipe, reprinted with permission of Taste of Home (tasteofhome.com).

Tool Tune-Up

In the fall, most of us toss our muddy, grubby tools in the shed, and there they sit, all winter, blades rusting, handles rotting. Give them a fresher start this spring by spending a few winter hours tuning those tools up.

Start first with a good cleaning. Remove last season’s grime with a damp rag. Use an abrasive or steel pad for any caked-on organic matter or rust.

After checking for and tightening any loose bolts or nuts, wipe tools down with a soft oil-soaked rag (a light lubricating oil will do the trick) to protect against rust and encourage moving parts to function properly.

Last, most tools—shovels, lopping shears, clippers, even some pruners—will benefit from a good sharpening. For best results, take them to a professional sharpening service. It is relatively inexpensive, and you know the job will be done right.

Baked Apple Night The Saturday Evening Post

Seed Sources We Love

Seed catalogs have captivated gardeners ever since Englishman David Landreth produced the first American mail order seed catalog in 1784. The D. Landreth Seed Company is still going strong as our love affair with seed catalogs continues. Only, today, there are hundreds of catalogs and thousands of seeds to choose from. Here are some of our favorites sources.

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds is an extensive collection of heirloom vegetables.

Johnny’s Selected Seeds has everything you’ll need for Mr. McGregor’s vegetable garden and more.

Renee’s Garden Seeds contains a selection of seeds of heirloom and cottage garden flowers, aromatic herbs, and gourmet vegetables from around the world.

At Richters, you’ll find a variety of herbs and a nice selection of vegetables.

Seed Savers Exchange is the largest nongovernmental seed bank in America and keeper of thousands of varieties of heirloom seeds—known for its heirloom vegetable collection.

Select Seeds is where you’ll find old-fashioned flowers, just like Grandma grew.

Thompson and Morgan is an extensive selection of both vegetables and ornamentals straight from England since 1855.

For more than 500 varieties of tomatoes and peppers, visit Tomato Growers Supply Company.

For more information about growing your own seeds, see “Growing Your Own” in the Jan/Feb 2010 issue of The Saturday Evening Post.

Seed Sources We Love The Saturday Evening Post

But what most people think of as the flowers are actually colored bracts or leaves, which surround a small, yellowish-green structure that is the true flower.

Today’s poinsettia is much improved from the poinsettia of years ago, thanks to plant breeders. Although red is still the most popular color, pink-, salmon- and white-colored bracts are also available. Even speckled pink, red and white bracts are now available in cultivars, such as Jingle Bells and Monet. Even more recent on the scene are those with variegated green and yellow leaves, bracts that have sharply pointed lobes that resemble holly leaves and a few that have ruffled bracts.

New cultivars tend to have a greater number of large flowers on more compact plants. Poinsettia trees are also popular as are hanging baskets. Like many other florists’ plants, dwarf poinsettias can be found that pack a lot of color in a small package.

Extend the Beauty
The long-lasting nature of today’s poinsettias can only be enjoyed if they receive the proper care in your home. The best way to extend their beauty is to match, as closely as possible, the conditions in which they were produced. Poinsettias are raised in greenhouses where cool temperatures can be maintained between 60 F and 75 F with high relative humidity and high light intensity.

These conditions will be difficult if not impossible to match in the home. Natural light intensity tends to be quite low and of shorter duration in the winter. And as we heat the air indoors, the air becomes drier so that relative humidity often drops below the level of plant and people comfort.

Make the most of the situation by placing your plant near a sunny window, but do not allow the foliage or flowers to contact cold window glass. Artificial light may be needed to extend growing periods. A humidifier will increase both plant and people comfort. Grouping plants together on a pebble tray will help raise humidity around the plants themselves. Both hot and cold drafts can cause leaf drop, so avoid placing plants near doors or heating vents.

Both under- and overwatering can decrease the life of your plant. Plants that are allowed to wilt will begin to brown along the edges of the leaves or may drop leaves entirely. Watering too often will prevent proper aeration of the soil, and roots will begin to die and decay. Poinsettias should be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. If your pot was wrapped in foil, be sure to poke a few holes through the bottom to allow water to drain away.

And if you’re giving a poinsettia as a gift, be sure to protect it from frigid outdoor temperatures during transport. If you make your purchase from a florist or other supplier, be sure they wrap your purchase. Get the plant from the store to your car as quickly as possible. Preheat the car beforehand to prevent further chilling injury. Plants left in an unheated car can be injured or killed quickly, so drop the plants off at home before running other errands.

Poisonous Plant?
The poinsettia is often listed as a poisonous plant; however, there is no scientific evidence to support this conclusion. Even in studies where rats were fed poinsettias, the rats showed no evidence of poisoning. Some people are sensitive to the milky sap in the plant and may develop a skin irritation if they are in contact with that sap. It is always best to keep plants out of the reach of children and pets.

For more information, visit urbanext.illinois.edu/poinsettia/index.cfm.

B. Rosie Lerner is an extension consumer horticulture specialist at Purdue University.

Poinsettia Pointers The Saturday Evening Post

Top 10 Gardening Books The Saturday Evening Post

Lucky for the renegade gardener, you don’t have to look far to find these special bulbs. That’s because the market has done an excellent job reacting to consumer demand for the delightfully unusual. Purchasing anything from Bulgarian ornamental onion to Grecian windflower is a snap with all the various mail-order catalogs and online storefronts at our fingertips today.

But with temperatures plummeting and the holidays just around the corner, planting is probably the last thing on most people’s minds. If you garden in the North, however, it’s literally “last call” when it comes to planting spring-blooming bulbs. That’s because, to put on one heck of an early season display, spring-blooming “hardy” bulbs must experience a cool, dormant period—about 12 to 16 weeks—to bloom. A good rule of thumb for northern gardeners is to plant bulbs six weeks before the ground freezes.

Southern gardeners, on the other hand, can plant hardy bulbs in early January after they’ve been chilled by artificial means, such as in a refrigerator crisper (take note, however, that gasses from ripening fruit can damage the bulbs). Or gardeners in these milder areas can look for bulbs bred to adapt to their short, temperate winters.
Here are some other basics that are good to know before you plant any bulb:

Plant bulbs pointy end up. While it may seem simple enough, planting bulbs upside down is an easy mistake. The pointed end is where the stem originates, while the root end is generally flatter and looks like the base of an onion. While a lucky few may break through the soil surface and bloom, more often than not, the plant wastes oodles of energy doing so, resulting in a lackluster display.

Plant at the appropriate depth. Large bulbs like tulips and daffodils should be planted about 6 and 8 inches deep, respectively. Plant crocus, hyacinth, and like smaller bulbs 3 to 5 inches deep. As for spacing, a good rule of thumb is to set bulbs three to four times their diameter apart. Be sure to give them a good soaking after planting!

Mulch. A couple inches of mulch, such as evergreen boughs, straw, or marsh hay, reduces the risk of early sprouting and other weather-related complications. Just be sure to wait until the ground freezes before applying.

Leave on fading foliage. Although it may look unattractive, it’s important to keep the leaves on the plants until they brown or at least 6 weeks have passed since  they bloomed. The leaves direct energy to the bulb, essentially feeding it, which is why you’re able to enjoy blooms year after year.

Plant in groups. While individual bulb blooms are beautiful unto themselves, there are ways to up the ante when it comes to impact. Best planted in groups of three or more, a mass of bulbs concentrates colors and creates a focal point that’s hard to ignore. The same can be said when bulbs are used as a ground cover, planted in border beds, or displayed as a “bouquet” in planters.

If planting a variety of bulbs, be sure to plant low-growing bulbs in front of taller varieties, especially if they bloom around the same time.

6 “Out-of-the-Box” Bulbs to Plant Today!

1. Allium (Allium)
‘Silver Spring’ has tiny white blossoms with pink-purple centers; ‘Fireworks’ has a distinct form that earns its namesake.

2. Grecian windflower (Anemone blanda)
Try ‘Mixed’ for daisy-like flowers in a variety of colors like blue, pink, and white.

3. Checkered lily (Fritillaria meleagris)
‘Saturnus’ boast reddish purple flowers, while ‘Charon’ has deep purple blooms.

4. Indian hyacinth (Camassia)
Plant ‘Blue Melody’ for impressive spikes of dark violet-blue flowers and variegated foliage.

5. Crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis)
Ranging in colors from scarlet red to yellow, its nodding, bell-shaped flowers rest beneath a “crowns” of stiff green leaves.

6. Species tulips (Tulipa)

Known for their uniqueness and ability to naturalize well, species tulips are the wild cousin of the hybrid variety. Try ‘Rockgarden Mixed Colors’ for an assortment of brightly colored blooms on short stems.

Also check out how to save bulbs.

Beyond Daffodils The Saturday Evening Post

Flatbed Feeder

Illustration by Niff Nicholls

Materials

• 1 4-foot long 1-by-3-inch cedar board
• 1 12-inch square section of window screen
• 8 1 ½-inch wood screws
• 2 36-inch-long pieces of film twine, leather, or nylon boot ties
• 4 ¼-inch eyebolts
• Copper upholstery tacks

Directions:

• Cut board into 2 12-inch and 2 9-inch sections.  Stand short pieces on end.  Lay longer piece across top.  Line up so ends are flush.  Pre-drill two holes on each end with a ⅛-inch drill bit.  Insert screws.  Repeat with the opposite end.  Attach screen to bottom with upholstery tacks.
• Screw eyebolts into each corner of top and attach ties.

Log Feeder

Illustration by Niff Nicholls

Materials

• 1 small log (7 to 21 inches long: thickness may vary from 4 inches or larger)
• 1 ¼-inch dowel rod
• Wood glue
• 1 medium eyebolt

Directions:

• Square off the ends of log.
• Drill 1-inch diameter holes, ¾ inch deep on all 4 sides. Space holes evenly.
• Drill ¼-inch holes beneath larger holes.
• Cut 3-inch dowel pieces. Add wood glue to one end and insert into small holes.
• Screw eyebolt into top and hang (using heavyguage wire) from a porch or nearby tree.

How to Build a Winter Bird Feeder The Saturday Evening Post

The ideal variety of tree that’s best for you depends on where you live. For example, Floridians scout for Red Cedars, Virginia Pines, Sand Pines, Spruce Pines, and Leyland Cypresses, while those on the West Coast look for Monterey Pines and Fraser Firs.

Size and shape, of course, depend on personal preference, but PickYourOwn.org offers a simple formula:

Room height – Size of tree topper – Height of tree stand – Base table under stand + Feet removed from bottom of tree = Height to buy at farm. Easy enough, right?

For example: If your living room is 8 feet high, your tree-topping star is 1 foot high, your tree stand is 1/2 foot high, you don’t use a base table, and you remove 1/2 foot of the bottom of the tree, then simple calculations allow you to buy a tree that’s 7 feet tall. (8 – 1 – .5 – 0 + .5 = 7)

Inspect your tree carefully:

To test the needles for resiliency, hold a branch 6 inches from the tip, then run your thumb and forefinger along the branch to make sure needles do not fall off in your hand. If only a few come off, the tree is considered fresh.

Evidence of a fresh tree can also be determined by its aroma and color. Well-hydrated trees retain their moisture content (and needles) and therefore remain more fragrant.

When buying from a choose-‘n’-cut farm, request that the farmer mechanically shakes the tree to eliminate dead needles. Also, make sure the limbs are strong enough to hold your ornaments and lights.

Handle with care:

If your trip from the farm to home takes you more than 15 minutes, it’s best to wrap the tree in a tarp to prevent wind damage on the highway. Don’t have a truck or camper to carry the tree? Not a problem: Tie it securely to the outside of your vehicle. To prevent needles from flying all over the highway, make sure the tree trunk is facing forward.

Before placing the tree in its stand, make a fresh, perpendicular cut about 1 inch from the bottom of the trunk. If you don’t feel comfortable sawing the tree yourself, ask your retailer to do it before bringing it home. Make sure your stand is big enough to support your tree, and don’t cut to fit. Cutting away the outer layer of the trunk affects its ability to absorb water. Always make sure your tree has plenty to drink. A well-hydrated tree will stay healthier longer, and your home will be filled with that fresh pine scent synonymous with the holiday season.

Tree not really your thing? Perhaps a simple wreath will do. We came across some truly crafty designs at decor8blog.com.

Happy holidays!

Picking the Perfect Christmas Tree The Saturday Evening Post

HOME (Indoor Plants & Activities)

• Check houseplant leaves for brown, dry edges, which indicate too little relative humidity in the house. Increase humidity by running a humidifier, grouping plants or using pebble trays.
• Place holiday plants, such as poinsettias and Christmas cactus, in a cool, brightly lit area that is free from warm or cold drafts. This will help extend their lifespan.
• Move plants closer to windows, but avoid placing foliage against cold glass panes. Houseplants may not receive adequate light because days are short and gloomy. Artificial lighting may be helpful.
• Water less. Because growth slows or stops in winter months, most plants will not require as much moisture and little, if any, fertilizer.

If you are forcing bulbs for the holidays, bring them into warmer temperatures after they have been sufficiently pre-cooled. Bulbs require a chilling period of about 10 to 12 weeks at 40 F to initiate flower buds and establish root growth. Pre-cooled bulbs are available from many garden suppliers if you did not get yours cooled in time. Then, provide two to four weeks of warm temperature (60 F), bright light and moderately moist soil to bring on flowers.

YARD (Lawns, Woody Ornamentals, and Fruits)

• Prevent bark-splitting of young and thin-barked trees, such as fruit and maple trees. Wrap trunks with tree wrap, or paint trunks with white latex (not oil-based) paint, particularly on the south- and southwest-facing sides.
• Protect shrubs, such as junipers and arborvitae, from extensive snow loads by tying their stems together with twine. Carefully remove heavy snow loads with a broom to prevent limb breakage.
• Protect broad leaves, evergreens or other tender landscape plants from excessive drying (desiccation) by winter sun and wind. Canvas, burlap, or polyethylene plastic screens to the south and west protect the plants. Similarly, shield plants from salt spray on the street side.
• Provide winter protection for roses by mounding soil approximately 12 inches high to insulate the graft union, after plants are dormant and temperatures are cold. Additional organic mulch, such as straw compost or chopped leaves, can be placed on top.

GARDEN (Flowers, Vegetables, and Small Fruits)

• Protect newly planted or tender perennials and bulbs by mulching with straw, chopped leaves, or other organic material after plants become dormant.
• Store leftover garden chemicals where they will stay dry, unfrozen and out of the reach of children, pets, and unsuspecting adults.
• Once the plants are completely dormant and temperatures are consistently below freezing, winter mulch can be applied to protect strawberries and other tender perennials. In most cases, 2-4 inches of organic material, such as straw, pine needles, hay, or bark chips, will provide adequate protection.
• Check produce and tender bulbs in storage, and discard any that show signs of decay, such as mold or softening. Shriveling indicates insufficient relative humidity.
• Clean up dead plant materials, synthetic mulch, and other debris in the vegetable garden, as well as in the flowerbeds, rose beds, and orchards.
• Order seed catalogs, and make notes for next year’s garden.

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette.

Winter HOME Work The Saturday Evening Post

These bulbs (technically, rhizomes, corms, and tubers as well as bulbs) originate from tropical or subropical climates and will die if left in the ground in regions where the ground freezes. When should you dig them up? Look at the foliage; if the leaves are green they are still working to provide food to replenish the bulb. Once the foliage begins to turn yellow, its job is done, indicating that it’s time to dig up the bulbs. This usually occurs around the first light frost.

Here’s the procedure:

Using a spade or fork, very carefully loosen the soil around the plants and gently lift the bulbs from the ground. Gently brush off excess soil and discard any bulbs that show signs of disease or rot. Leaving the foliage attached, hang or spread out the bulbs is a warm, dry location, out of direct sun, to “cure” for seven to ten days. Once bulbs have cured, trim the foliage down 1/2 inch from the bulb.

Some gardeners protect the cured bulbs from disease by dusting them with a fungicide, such as sulfur, although I’ve never done this and have had continued success over the years. The largest bulbs will perform best next year; you can compost the smaller ones or store them for planting next spring, knowing they may not produce many flowers.

Stored bulbs must remain dry and receive good air circulation. Avoid storing bulbs in sealed, air-tight containers because this can lead to moisture build-up and rot. Most bulbs store best where temperatures remain around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Cool, dry basements or unheated garages that stay above freezing are often good locations.

There are several ways to store the bulbs. One method is to place the bulbs in a box of peat moss, sand, or sawdust, spreading them out so the bulbs aren’t touching each other. Don’t stack bulbs deeper than three layers. (My father-in-law places his bulbs in plastic mesh onion bags and hangs them in the garage.) Label the bulbs by type and flower color before storing. Check stored bulbs occasionally throughout the winter and discard any that show signs of rot.

Here are some specifics for popular summer bulbs:

Caladium. In all but the warmest regions (USDA zones 10 and 11), dig up caladiums before the first fall frost and allow plants to dry. Cut foliage back to an inch, then pack the bulbs loosely in peat moss. Keep slightly warmer than other stored bulbs—50 to 60 F.

Canna. You can leave cannas in the ground in USDA zones 7 and warmer. In colder regions, cut plants back to 6 inches tall after the first fall frost kills the foliage. Carefully lift each clump of rhizomes and store them in one of the ways described above. Or, wrap rhizomes in newspapers and place in a box.

Dahlia. Dahlias are only hardy to USDA zone 8; in colder regions you’ll need to dig and store the tubers. In autumn, after frost kills the foliage but before the ground freezes, cut the plants back to a few inches in height. Carefully lift clumps, brush off any clinging soil, allow the tubers to cure for a week or so, then put them in a plastic-lined box filled with perlite or peat moss, spacing them so that none are touching. Store boxes in a dry area at 45 to 55 F. Dahlia tubers mustn’t dry out completely; moisten packing material slightly if necessary.

Elephant ear (alocasia and colocasia). These plants must be dug and stored or brought indoors in regions colder than USDA zone 9. Bring container-grown plants indoors and treat them as houseplants. Or, lift tubers, cure, and store in peat moss in a cool, dry place.

Gladiolas. In zones 7 and 8, mulch beds with a layer of hay or straw for winter protection. In colder regions, dig corms before the first frost. Remove excess soil, cut the stalks to within an inch of the corms, and let them cure for 1 to 2 weeks in a warm, airy location. Then remove and discard the oldest bottom corms and store the large, new corms in plastic mesh bags in a well-ventilated, 35- to 45-F room.

Tuberous begonia. Since the tubers are only hardy to USDA zone 9, in colder regions dig them before a frost and let the tubers dry. Store them in a cool (35 to 45 F) location in dry peat moss.

Article reprinted courtesy of the National Gardening Association.

For 11 years Rebecca hosted NBC’s nationally syndicated show Rebecca’s Garden. She’s been the lifestyles and gardening contributor for ABC’s Good Morning America since 1998, is the author of the book Rebecca’s Garden: Four Seasons to Grow On, and now publishes her own magazine, Seasons by Rebecca.

Saving Your Summer Bulbs The Saturday Evening Post

Seeds need to be kept cool, dark, and dry so that they retain stored carbohydrates and minimize fungal infection. You can keep the seeds in their original packets to preserve their labeling information. If you transfer the seeds to another container, be sure to label them with at least the plant name and the year the seed was purchased. Either way, be sure the seed is as dry as possible before placing in storage.

One of the more practical methods for storing small quantities is to place leftover seed in sealed jars or other airtight containers and store in a cool, dark area such as the refrigerator (not the freezer). A layer of powdered milk or uncooked rice at the bottom of the container will absorb excess moisture. Use a paper towel to separate the seed from the absorptive material.

These days, many seed packets only contain a few seeds so the germination test may be a moot point! On the other hand, many seeds are pricey, so saving even a few seeds can make a big impact on next year’s gardening budget.

The following chart listing storage life for common garden species will help you decide which seeds are worth the trouble. However, the conditions in which the seeds are stored dramatically affects how well they will germinate next year, as much or more so than their species.

** Hill Gardens of Maine,
hillgardens.com/seed_longevity.htm

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette, Indiana.

Save the Seed! The Saturday Evening Post