For those with asthma and/or allergy symptoms, gardening can become more pain than pleasure. But have no fear! Minimizing pesky allergens growing in your own backyard is easy with these tips from the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America and other experts:

• Pick the right plants. Asthma-friendly choices include St. Augustine grass; azalea, boxwood, and hibiscus shrubs; apple, dogwood, and red maple trees; and begonia, impatiens, snapdragon, and hosta flowering plants.
• Get good ground cover. Opt for gravel, oyster shell, or vinca plants. Conversely, popular covers like wood chips and mulch can retain moisture and encourage mold growth.
• Keep hedges under control. Prune annually 
to limit height and thin out the oldest wood. Hedge branches trap dust, mold, and pollen.
• Cover up. Wear a hat, glasses, gloves, long-sleeve shirt, and a National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health-approved face mask (available at most garden stores) to keep allergens away from skin and nose.
• Work late. Care for your plants in late afternoon or early evening when pollen counts tend to drop.
• Know the score. Download free mobile apps to get 24/7 pollen counts in your hometown at pollen.com and zyrtec.com. If you have asthma, you can also download an asthma symptom tracker app at asthmamd.org and myasthma.com.

Fear of Flowers The Saturday Evening Post

Planting and landscaping can be satisfying…and humorous.

"Let’s plant it right here!"
from July/August 2001

"I know you’re out here, dear.
I heard you using your new rototiller."
from May/June 2000

"He’s doing better this season.
Last year his back gave out before his enthusiasm."
from July/August 1998

"When these things grow up, we’re in real trouble."
from March/April 1994

"I really look forward to Monday morning—it gets me back to work!"
from May/June 1999

"Isn't that where you spilled the fertilizer?"
from May/June 2004

Cartoons: Gardening The Saturday Evening Post

You can see more images by viewing our gallery. You can also check out our first installment, America’s Best Botanical Gardens, Part 1: The West

The South

Wikimedia Commons

Atlanta Botanical Garden (Georgia) Most gardens ask visitors not to step in flowerbeds. In the Atlanta Botanical Garden, they warn you. This is because it has one of the largest carnivorous plant collections around, making it a place where guests with poor manners learn the hard way. In reality, these plants are no threat to anything larger than a bug (or the occasional mouse or frog), but they are very cool. They capture prey in a variety of ways- from snapping shut to pitfall traps- and fascinate visitors of all ages. There are of course other attractions, like the Rose, Rock, and Southern Seasons gardens. The Fuqua Orchid Center houses lots of the flowers, and the Center for Conservation and Education does just that. For a special treat, visit after dark. www.atlantabotanicalgarden.org

Courtesy Fairchild Botanical Gardens

Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden (Florida) Florida is home to the greatest tropical plant center in mainland U.S.- the Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden (FTBG). Named for David Fairchild, who traveled every habitable continent studying plants, it is a global conservation leader. FTBG’s 83 acres harbor over 4,000 plant species. Thematic areas include the National Palm Collection (the world’s greatest living collection of palms and cycads), Simons Rainforest, and Whitman Tropical Fruit Pavilion. Events like the Chocolate, Orchid and International Mango festivals add to the appeal. FTBG’s conservation efforts extend beyond its grounds. It oversees research, development and renovation projects in over 20 countries. More than 150 classes are taught here, including graduate courses for tomorrow’s conservationists. www.fairchildgarden.org

Courtesy of the Dallas Arboretum

Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden (Texas) Plants have unique challenges in North Texas – searing summer heat; severe winter temperature drops; drought possibility all year. The Dallas Arboretum (DA) meets this climatic challenge, maintaining a model in regional gardening excellence. The garden’s relative youth (founded 1982) has been key in its success. Planners used modern information to select flora that endure and thrive in the harsh conditions. Today, DA is a leader in climate-specific plant knowledge and operates trial gardens to provide private plant companies info. In spring, DA puts on two signature events. In “Dallas Blooms,” 500,000 bulbs create the South’s largest floral display. In Artscape, artists show photos, jewelry, woodwork, and more. www.dallasarboretum.org

The Northeast

Photo by T. Kates / Courtesy of The Trustees of Reservations

Mytoi Gardens (Massachusetts) Located in Martha’s Vineyard, one of the most scenic locales in the U.S., the Mytoi Gardens are a sight to behold. Here, the pristine beauty of the Massachusetts coastal island seems to be captured and amplified with a Japanese twist. Guests enjoy tranquility and self-reflection during their visit to Mytoi, which includes a camellia dell, stone garden, and pine grove. All of these center around the signature feature: a reflection pond and island accessible by elevated bridge. Mytoi is free to the public, making it an easily accessible and affordable item on any Martha’s Vineyard travel itinerary. A hurricane destroyed much of it in 1991, and the Trustees of Reservations charitable organization has restored and maintained it for everyone since. www.thetrustees.org/places-to-visit/cape-cod-islands/mytoi.html

(Wikimedia Commons)

Brooklyn Botanical Garden (New York) This 52-acre “living museum,” located smack dab in the middle of Brooklyn, makes visitors rethink what an “urban jungle” is. Over 700,000 come annually to see the Brooklyn Botanical Garden, which celebrates its centennial in 2010 and is home to 11,000 plant species and several specialty areas. The cherry orchard is a famed destination during Hanami, the Japanese holiday for cherry-blossom season. An enchanting landscape takes center stage during this event- hundreds of  cherry trees bloom overhead and millions of fallen petals carpet the path below- while Japanese culture is shared with all. Other thematic areas include a Rose Garden, Conservatory, and Fragrance Garden. Year round art shows, tours and plant sales, and programs like the Chili Pepper Fiesta and Street Tree Stewardship Initiative, make this botanical garden world-class. www.bbg.org

America’s Best Botanical Gardens, Part 2: The South and Northeast The Saturday Evening Post

But what most people think of as the flowers are actually colored bracts or leaves, which surround a small, yellowish-green structure that is the true flower.

Today’s poinsettia is much improved from the poinsettia of years ago, thanks to plant breeders. Although red is still the most popular color, pink-, salmon- and white-colored bracts are also available. Even speckled pink, red and white bracts are now available in cultivars, such as Jingle Bells and Monet. Even more recent on the scene are those with variegated green and yellow leaves, bracts that have sharply pointed lobes that resemble holly leaves and a few that have ruffled bracts.

New cultivars tend to have a greater number of large flowers on more compact plants. Poinsettia trees are also popular as are hanging baskets. Like many other florists’ plants, dwarf poinsettias can be found that pack a lot of color in a small package.

Extend the Beauty
The long-lasting nature of today’s poinsettias can only be enjoyed if they receive the proper care in your home. The best way to extend their beauty is to match, as closely as possible, the conditions in which they were produced. Poinsettias are raised in greenhouses where cool temperatures can be maintained between 60 F and 75 F with high relative humidity and high light intensity.

These conditions will be difficult if not impossible to match in the home. Natural light intensity tends to be quite low and of shorter duration in the winter. And as we heat the air indoors, the air becomes drier so that relative humidity often drops below the level of plant and people comfort.

Make the most of the situation by placing your plant near a sunny window, but do not allow the foliage or flowers to contact cold window glass. Artificial light may be needed to extend growing periods. A humidifier will increase both plant and people comfort. Grouping plants together on a pebble tray will help raise humidity around the plants themselves. Both hot and cold drafts can cause leaf drop, so avoid placing plants near doors or heating vents.

Both under- and overwatering can decrease the life of your plant. Plants that are allowed to wilt will begin to brown along the edges of the leaves or may drop leaves entirely. Watering too often will prevent proper aeration of the soil, and roots will begin to die and decay. Poinsettias should be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. If your pot was wrapped in foil, be sure to poke a few holes through the bottom to allow water to drain away.

And if you’re giving a poinsettia as a gift, be sure to protect it from frigid outdoor temperatures during transport. If you make your purchase from a florist or other supplier, be sure they wrap your purchase. Get the plant from the store to your car as quickly as possible. Preheat the car beforehand to prevent further chilling injury. Plants left in an unheated car can be injured or killed quickly, so drop the plants off at home before running other errands.

Poisonous Plant?
The poinsettia is often listed as a poisonous plant; however, there is no scientific evidence to support this conclusion. Even in studies where rats were fed poinsettias, the rats showed no evidence of poisoning. Some people are sensitive to the milky sap in the plant and may develop a skin irritation if they are in contact with that sap. It is always best to keep plants out of the reach of children and pets.

For more information, visit urbanext.illinois.edu/poinsettia/index.cfm.

B. Rosie Lerner is an extension consumer horticulture specialist at Purdue University.

Poinsettia Pointers The Saturday Evening Post

Lucky for the renegade gardener, you don’t have to look far to find these special bulbs. That’s because the market has done an excellent job reacting to consumer demand for the delightfully unusual. Purchasing anything from Bulgarian ornamental onion to Grecian windflower is a snap with all the various mail-order catalogs and online storefronts at our fingertips today.

But with temperatures plummeting and the holidays just around the corner, planting is probably the last thing on most people’s minds. If you garden in the North, however, it’s literally “last call” when it comes to planting spring-blooming bulbs. That’s because, to put on one heck of an early season display, spring-blooming “hardy” bulbs must experience a cool, dormant period—about 12 to 16 weeks—to bloom. A good rule of thumb for northern gardeners is to plant bulbs six weeks before the ground freezes.

Southern gardeners, on the other hand, can plant hardy bulbs in early January after they’ve been chilled by artificial means, such as in a refrigerator crisper (take note, however, that gasses from ripening fruit can damage the bulbs). Or gardeners in these milder areas can look for bulbs bred to adapt to their short, temperate winters.
Here are some other basics that are good to know before you plant any bulb:

Plant bulbs pointy end up. While it may seem simple enough, planting bulbs upside down is an easy mistake. The pointed end is where the stem originates, while the root end is generally flatter and looks like the base of an onion. While a lucky few may break through the soil surface and bloom, more often than not, the plant wastes oodles of energy doing so, resulting in a lackluster display.

Plant at the appropriate depth. Large bulbs like tulips and daffodils should be planted about 6 and 8 inches deep, respectively. Plant crocus, hyacinth, and like smaller bulbs 3 to 5 inches deep. As for spacing, a good rule of thumb is to set bulbs three to four times their diameter apart. Be sure to give them a good soaking after planting!

Mulch. A couple inches of mulch, such as evergreen boughs, straw, or marsh hay, reduces the risk of early sprouting and other weather-related complications. Just be sure to wait until the ground freezes before applying.

Leave on fading foliage. Although it may look unattractive, it’s important to keep the leaves on the plants until they brown or at least 6 weeks have passed since  they bloomed. The leaves direct energy to the bulb, essentially feeding it, which is why you’re able to enjoy blooms year after year.

Plant in groups. While individual bulb blooms are beautiful unto themselves, there are ways to up the ante when it comes to impact. Best planted in groups of three or more, a mass of bulbs concentrates colors and creates a focal point that’s hard to ignore. The same can be said when bulbs are used as a ground cover, planted in border beds, or displayed as a “bouquet” in planters.

If planting a variety of bulbs, be sure to plant low-growing bulbs in front of taller varieties, especially if they bloom around the same time.

6 “Out-of-the-Box” Bulbs to Plant Today!

1. Allium (Allium)
‘Silver Spring’ has tiny white blossoms with pink-purple centers; ‘Fireworks’ has a distinct form that earns its namesake.

2. Grecian windflower (Anemone blanda)
Try ‘Mixed’ for daisy-like flowers in a variety of colors like blue, pink, and white.

3. Checkered lily (Fritillaria meleagris)
‘Saturnus’ boast reddish purple flowers, while ‘Charon’ has deep purple blooms.

4. Indian hyacinth (Camassia)
Plant ‘Blue Melody’ for impressive spikes of dark violet-blue flowers and variegated foliage.

5. Crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis)
Ranging in colors from scarlet red to yellow, its nodding, bell-shaped flowers rest beneath a “crowns” of stiff green leaves.

6. Species tulips (Tulipa)

Known for their uniqueness and ability to naturalize well, species tulips are the wild cousin of the hybrid variety. Try ‘Rockgarden Mixed Colors’ for an assortment of brightly colored blooms on short stems.

Also check out how to save bulbs.

Beyond Daffodils The Saturday Evening Post

These bulbs (technically, rhizomes, corms, and tubers as well as bulbs) originate from tropical or subropical climates and will die if left in the ground in regions where the ground freezes. When should you dig them up? Look at the foliage; if the leaves are green they are still working to provide food to replenish the bulb. Once the foliage begins to turn yellow, its job is done, indicating that it’s time to dig up the bulbs. This usually occurs around the first light frost.

Here’s the procedure:

Using a spade or fork, very carefully loosen the soil around the plants and gently lift the bulbs from the ground. Gently brush off excess soil and discard any bulbs that show signs of disease or rot. Leaving the foliage attached, hang or spread out the bulbs is a warm, dry location, out of direct sun, to “cure” for seven to ten days. Once bulbs have cured, trim the foliage down 1/2 inch from the bulb.

Some gardeners protect the cured bulbs from disease by dusting them with a fungicide, such as sulfur, although I’ve never done this and have had continued success over the years. The largest bulbs will perform best next year; you can compost the smaller ones or store them for planting next spring, knowing they may not produce many flowers.

Stored bulbs must remain dry and receive good air circulation. Avoid storing bulbs in sealed, air-tight containers because this can lead to moisture build-up and rot. Most bulbs store best where temperatures remain around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Cool, dry basements or unheated garages that stay above freezing are often good locations.

There are several ways to store the bulbs. One method is to place the bulbs in a box of peat moss, sand, or sawdust, spreading them out so the bulbs aren’t touching each other. Don’t stack bulbs deeper than three layers. (My father-in-law places his bulbs in plastic mesh onion bags and hangs them in the garage.) Label the bulbs by type and flower color before storing. Check stored bulbs occasionally throughout the winter and discard any that show signs of rot.

Here are some specifics for popular summer bulbs:

Caladium. In all but the warmest regions (USDA zones 10 and 11), dig up caladiums before the first fall frost and allow plants to dry. Cut foliage back to an inch, then pack the bulbs loosely in peat moss. Keep slightly warmer than other stored bulbs—50 to 60 F.

Canna. You can leave cannas in the ground in USDA zones 7 and warmer. In colder regions, cut plants back to 6 inches tall after the first fall frost kills the foliage. Carefully lift each clump of rhizomes and store them in one of the ways described above. Or, wrap rhizomes in newspapers and place in a box.

Dahlia. Dahlias are only hardy to USDA zone 8; in colder regions you’ll need to dig and store the tubers. In autumn, after frost kills the foliage but before the ground freezes, cut the plants back to a few inches in height. Carefully lift clumps, brush off any clinging soil, allow the tubers to cure for a week or so, then put them in a plastic-lined box filled with perlite or peat moss, spacing them so that none are touching. Store boxes in a dry area at 45 to 55 F. Dahlia tubers mustn’t dry out completely; moisten packing material slightly if necessary.

Elephant ear (alocasia and colocasia). These plants must be dug and stored or brought indoors in regions colder than USDA zone 9. Bring container-grown plants indoors and treat them as houseplants. Or, lift tubers, cure, and store in peat moss in a cool, dry place.

Gladiolas. In zones 7 and 8, mulch beds with a layer of hay or straw for winter protection. In colder regions, dig corms before the first frost. Remove excess soil, cut the stalks to within an inch of the corms, and let them cure for 1 to 2 weeks in a warm, airy location. Then remove and discard the oldest bottom corms and store the large, new corms in plastic mesh bags in a well-ventilated, 35- to 45-F room.

Tuberous begonia. Since the tubers are only hardy to USDA zone 9, in colder regions dig them before a frost and let the tubers dry. Store them in a cool (35 to 45 F) location in dry peat moss.

Article reprinted courtesy of the National Gardening Association.

For 11 years Rebecca hosted NBC’s nationally syndicated show Rebecca’s Garden. She’s been the lifestyles and gardening contributor for ABC’s Good Morning America since 1998, is the author of the book Rebecca’s Garden: Four Seasons to Grow On, and now publishes her own magazine, Seasons by Rebecca.

Saving Your Summer Bulbs The Saturday Evening Post

They were a big hit back in Europe when introduced there by New World explorers in the 1500s. One giant sunflower grown in Padua was said to have reached 40 feet in height. Today the tallest sunflowers, “Mammoth Russians,” grow up to 12 feet. Russian Czar Peter the Great (nearly 7 feet tall himself) discovered sunflowers growing in Holland and started one of the world’s first large cultivation programs. The Russian sunflowers were reintroduced to America in the 1880s and are still available in today’s seed catalogs.

Sunflower growers now have some 2,000 varieties to choose from, from the tallest to the newer dwarf varieties such as Sunspot and Teddy Bear that grow approximately 12 to 18 inches.

At this time of year, sunflowers are at their most glorious, crowning gardens with colors ranging from pale yellow to red, bronze, burgundy, chestnut, mahogany, and white. Actually, Italian white is an extremely pale yellow, shading to nearly white, and looks like a large daisy.

The seeds can be harvested once the flowers have turned brown. Late in the season, you can cut the flower heads off at the stem and hang the flowers upside down in an airy location to allow them to dry. Rub two flower heads together, and allow the seeds to drop onto a sheet or into a container. A small patch of giant sunflowers will produce a lot of seed for your birdfeeder this fall and winter.

Cutting varieties of sunflower such as Italian White, Parasol Mix, and Indian Blanket will branch after cutting, producing many smaller flowers. Many gardeners prefer pollenless varieties such as Prado Red and Velvet Queen, which don’t stain fingers when touched.

Sunflowers are actually composites of 1,000 to 4,000 tiny flowers. The showy flowers around the edge are the male, or “ray,” flowers. The female “disk” flowers are in the middle and produce the seeds. The seeds can be harvested once the flowers have turned brown. Late in the season, you can cut the flower heads off at the stem and hang the flowers upside down in an airy location to allow them to dry. Rub two flower heads together, and allow the seeds to drop onto a sheet or into a container. A small patch of giant sunflowers will produce a lot of seed for your birdfeeder this fall and winter.

For a delicious sunflower seed snack, cover the unshelled seeds with salted water, using ¼ cup salt for two quarts water. Simmer for two hours. Dry the on paper towels. Or soak the seeds overnight in saltwater. Spread the dry seeds on a baking sheet and roast in a 300 F oven for 30 to 40 minutes.  Stir the seeds occasionally, and taste to determine if they are completely roasted. Store the seeds in an air-tight container.  For immediate eating, you can mix the freshly roasted seeds with melted butter or olive oil and favorite seasonings, onion or garlic salt, or Cajun or barbecue powder.

Following the Sun The Saturday Evening Post

Flowers are out in full  force in late summer and fall, and this is the perfect time to preserve some of that color and beauty to brighten your home in winter.

Drying flowers is easy and inexpensive, requiring just a little know-how. The trick is to cut flowers at the right time of day, late enough in the morning so that the dew has evaporated, but before the blossoms become wilted by the sun. Pick immature blossoms for the best results. If cut at their peak of perfection, flowers will open farther during the drying process and leave you with a less than perfect result. For dried bouquets, however, you may want to pick flowers ranging from buds to nearly fully opened blossoms.

Once flowers are cut, to prevent fading, remove them from the sunlight. Gather in bunches of six to 10 stalks. Tie the bunches with a string or a rubber band about 2 inches from the stem end and hang them upside down in a dark, ventilated place such as a barn loft, potting shed, or attic. Darkness is the key to maintaining color. Blue, orange, and pink are the easiest colors to retain.

Then comes the hard part—waiting. Drying can take from 24 hours to three weeks, depending on the type of flowers and the humidity. Flowers are dry when they feel brittle and the stems snap easily.

Some flowers, such as baby’s breath, globe thistles, and Chinese lanterns, are best dried upright. Place them in wide-mouth jars or coffee cans. Other top-heavy flowers, such as Queen Anne’s lace, dill, or fennel, can be dried upright with the stems stuck through the holes of ¼-inch hardware cloth (metal fencing material).

Drying Agents
To dry larger or more delicate flower heads, such as anemones, daisies, pansies, and zinnias, use a drying agent such as sand, laundry borax mixed with white cornmeal, or kitty litter (fresh, not used). Many now use silica gel, available at craft stores. Spread an inch layer of the gel or one of the other drying agents in a shallow, lidded glass or plastic container and place the flower heads face down in the drying agent. Then cover the flowers with an inch of drying agent. Seal the container and store in a dark area for 3 to 5 days.

You can speed up the process by placing the container in a microwave oven on high for a few minutes, then allow to cool before opening to check for dryness.

Arranged in bouquets, wreaths, or table decorations, everlastings can, as their name implies, last for many years. Keep them out of direct sunlight to prevent fading. Clean them with a gentle feather dusting. To store them, wrap in newspaper to keep out moisture and place in boxes. Avoid storing them in overly damp places such as basements.

Some Flowers for Drying

Asters
Calendula
Cornflower
Globe amaranth
Larkspur
Marigold
Mums
Pompon dahlia
Roses
Statice
Strawflowers
Yarrow
Zinnias

Everlasting Flowers The Saturday Evening Post

Contemplative Blossom The Saturday Evening Post

Cut roses, daffodils, gladiolas, and irises when the flowers are in bud. They will open in the vase. Other flowers such as marigolds, delphiniums, and dianthus should be cut after opening. After cutting the stems with a sharp, nonserrated knife, immerse the stems in a pail of lukewarm (never cold) water and place in a cool spot out of the sunlight for a few hours. This will increase longevity.

Flowers with hollow stems, such as daffodils, delphiniums, and amaryllis, will live longer if you turn them over after cutting, fill the stems with water, then place a plug of cotton in the base and submerge the stems immediately in the vase.

Before putting daffodils, hollyhocks, hydrangeas, or poppies in a vase, singe the ends briefly with a lighted match. This will keep the milky substance in their stems from coagulating and blocking their water supply. It will also prevent the milky substance from entering the water and adversely affecting other flowers.

To prepare clematis flowers, pour boiling water on the stems and then place them in cold water. Additionally, like some people, these flowers prefer a little nip to stay happy. The Japanese dip them in an alcoholic beverage, such as champagne, for a few hours before putting them in a vase. We don’t know if they drink the champagne afterwards, but we don’t recommend it.

For bouquets with gladioli, cut the flower when the lowermost floret is opening, and remove a few buds from the top.

Other Bloom-Extending Techniques

Use products such as Floralife, a powder that is added to the water. Or make your own by putting flowers into a solution of one gallon of water with one can of clear soft drink added. Or by adding two teaspoons of a medicinal mouthwash. Others suggest adding an aspirin, a sugar cube, or some bacteria-killing laundry bleach.

To resuscitate wilted flowers, cut a couple inches off the stems and place in a few inches of warm water for a half hour; then put back into the vase with fresh, cool water. In a hot room, place some ice cubes in the water. Or place the flowers in a cooler room for a few hours.

And for that final touch to keep your bouquet looking spiffy, why not cheat a bit? Spray cut flowers lightly with an aerosol hair spray to prevent blossoms from falling. Let us know if this works!

Cut Flower Care The Saturday Evening Post

How do you make the most of this abundance of scents and colors and keep the fireworks going for as long as possible? Here are some suggestions from garden experts around the country.

Keep flower beds weeded and remove dead blossoms.

Pinch back snapdragons after they bloom to promote a second flowering.

Stake tall flowers such as delphiniums and tie them with a soft twine to prevent wind damage.

Keep sweet peas blooming by mulching heavily to retain moisture and cool the roots.

Cut back all side shoots on dahlias to produce larger flowers.

If annuals have faded, cut them back by half and fertilize them with 5-10-10 fertilizer.

When cutting flowers, use a sharp knife or scissors so as not to injure the plant.

Keep roses well watered and add fertilizer once a month.

Cut back bee balm right after blossoming to stimulate possible second blooming.

Lightly fertilize chrysanthemums every two weeks.

In July, sow seeds for foxgloves, hollyhocks, Canterbury bells, and sweet William for blooming next year.

Protect perennials from slugs with copper strips, available from garden centers. Most slugs won’t cross them, although occasionally some will be daring.

Perhaps the best way to keep your garden producing is by planting the longest blooming perennials such as the following:

• Purple coneflower
• Dayliliy
• Garden phlox
• Hibiscus
• Speedwell
• Mallow
• Obedient plant
• Poppy mallow
• Japanese aster
• Gaura
• Balloon flower
• Pincushion flower
• Joe-pye weed
• Catmint
• Black-eyed Susan
• Stonecrop
• Boltonia
• Japanese anemone

July in the Garden: Keep the Fireworks Going The Saturday Evening Post

Squash Blossoms

Fried Squash Blossoms

• 12 large squash blossoms, freshly picked (use male flowers with the single tubular stamen)
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1 cup flour
• 1 cup water
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon red (cayenne) pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric

Combine batter ingredients. Heat 1/2 to 1 cup oil in a saucepan. Dip squash blossoms in batter until coated and fry in hot oil until golden brown, less than 1 minute. Drain on paper towel and serve warm.

Fried Squash Blossoms The Saturday Evening Post