Some Like It Hot

In an herb spiral, climate varies from arid Mediterranean at the top to moist and subtropical at its base. Heat-loving herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, oregano, marjoram, and sage, bask in the dry, sunny upper region that is 2 or

3 feet above ground. Bricks or stones placed along the spiral capture the noonday heat, storing it to keep herbs toasty at night. In a “trickle-down” effect, water drains down into the lower levels, leaving the arid-loving plants high and dry, while the middle and lower levels stay progressively more moist. The varied environments provide an ideal growing medium for tansies, chives, garlic, parsley, and chamomile in the middle level, and lemon balm, coriander, and moisture-loving mints at the base. Some gardeners place a small pond at the lowest level for watercress and other water plants.

An Upward Spiral

Start with a sunny spot in your yard or garden within an accessible range of your kitchen. Clear an area about 6 feet in diameter. (If grass is present, use a spade to remove any sod.)

Find the middle of the plot, then drive in a stake. Using a 2 ½-foot string with a loop placed around the stake, mark out the desired diameter of your circle with a pointed stick or screwdriver.

Using bricks or rock, lay out the spiral either from the center out or from the outside in. Position the bottom end of the spiral on the south side. You can “eyeball” the spiral, but for more accuracy, place a two-gallon plastic pail upside down in the center. Tie a 4-foot string around the base of the pail and secure with duct tape. Place a weight on top of the bucket, then measure out the desired radius. Hold a pointed stick or screwdriver at that point on the string and mark the ground as you go around the pail. Keep the line taut. You will end up at the pail with a nice spiral.

Build the spiral until it is 2 to 3 feet high at its top. Fill the middle with stones, sand, or brick pieces, leaving about 8 inches at the top to fill with soil. Mediterranean herbs that will thrive at the top level prefer poor soil. As you descend the spiral, add more compost for herbs planted in the middle and base.

Consider the growing habits of each herb when planting. Shade-tolerant plants will grow best on the east, west, and north sides of the spiral. Rosemary can become large, so place it at the top. Creeping plants such marjoram and thyme may be planted so they can cascade over the edge. Situate herbs from 1 to 2 feet apart. To fill gaps, plant parsley, kale, calendula, or nasturtium throughout your spiral.

Build an Herb Spiral The Saturday Evening Post

Weeding—Don’t let the weeds get away from you. The more you remove before they develop seeds this time of year, the better for next year’s garden. Remember to keep your asparagus patch well weeded, too, but allow their fern tops to grow so they can feed the crown below ground.

Trimming—Continue to shear back leggy annuals and remove spent blossoms of zinnias and other flowers to spur new bud growth.

Transplanting—When daylilies have faded, you can divide them and replant at will. Hostas may also be divided at any time. Late August is also the time for dividing and transplanting peonies and bearded iris.

Seed Harvesting—Remove the seed heads of self-seeding flowering plants such as larkspurs after the plants have faded. Resow the seeds any time until heavy frost.

Pinching—Pinch back basil and other herb flowers to keep them producing, and trim herbs such as summer savory and marjoram for a nice full bush.

Planting—In some areas there may still be time to add bush beans or start new rows of chard, radishes, arugula, spinach, turnips, beets, or lettuce for fall crops.

Fill in bare spots in flower beds with flowering plants such as crocosima and phlox, available now at nurseries and supermarkets.

This is also the time to plant fall-blooming bulbs—fall crocus and autumn crocus (Cochicum) that will provide showy flowers September through October. Fall-blooming crocuses are true crocus plants that happen to bloom in the fall. They include C. banaticus, light to dark purple and resembling an iris, hardy into zone 4, C. hadriacticus, hardy into zone 5, and C. sativus, the saffron crocus (most expensive), purple-flowered with orange stigmas that’s hardy into zone 5.

Colchicums, “autumn crocus,” bloom like giant crocus blossoms, but are actually a separate genus. They prefer rich, well-drained compost and grow in full or partial sun. Varieties include C. agrippinum, checkered, pink-purple flowers; C. byzantium, rosy white petals dating from the 16th century; and C. speciosum, a violet colored tulip look-alike.

With a moderate amount of upkeep, you can maintain a vibrant and colorful garden through the hottest days of summer and long into the fall.

August Gardening To-Do’s The Saturday Evening Post