Today homeowners are rediscovering the advantages of a backyard pool. While a pool can cost anywhere from $100 to $3,500 or more depending on materials and plants, a small water garden can still come in under $100. Follow these 10 simple steps and create your own sensory experience that only water can bestow.

1 – Decide on the type of water garden you want

With flexible liners, you choose the dimensions that suit your needs, then cut the liner to fit. Liners made of PVC or EPDM rubber are more durable than polyethylene. You can find them at home-improvement stores and garden centers.

2 – Determine the location and size:

The best spot is one that is fairly level, somewhat open, and receives at least five hours of direct sun. Choose an area away from trees and any runoff from rain that might affect the pool’s ecosystem. Select a site near the house for easy access to an electrical outlet equipped with a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Most backyard pools range in depth from 8 inches to 3 feet. Plan on 3 to 4 feet deep in colder regions of the country. Deeper pools also stand up to summer heat and winter freezes.

3 – Dig in:

Using a garden hose or rope, mark the outline of your pond on the ground, then excavate the site to the desired shape. Slightly slope the sides inward to the desired depth, or dig a shelf (about 12 inches wide by 8 to 12 inches deep) around the inside perimeter to accommodate potted water plants. Check to confirm that the outer edges are level.

4 – Prep the space:

Remove any rocks or tree roots from the sides and bottom of the hole so they won’t puncture the liner, then rake the area smooth and tamp the soil firmly in place. Cover the bottom and sides of the excavated area with an underlayment such as a commercial underliner or 2 to 3 inches of damp sand. This will help cushion and further protect the pond liner.

5 – Install the pond liner:

To determine the size liner 
you’ll need, measure the pool’s length and width, then add twice the maximum depth plus 2 feet. For example, a pool that is 10 feet long by 7 feet wide and 2 feet deep will need a 16 x 13-foot liner (length is 10 + 4 + 2 = 16; width is 
7 + 4 + 2 = 13). This will allow for a 12-inch overlap around the pool’s perimeter. Center your liner loosely over the hole and unfold it, leaving an even overlap around the pool’s perimeter. Stretch out and smooth the liner into place so 
that it fits snugly on the bottom and up the sides. Minimize the wrinkles, but leave a few folds where the sides curve to allow for slack.

6 – Cover up:

Cover the pond liner with a 2- to 3-inch layer of pea gravel, or use smooth rocks with pea gravel poured in-between. This will lengthen the life of the liner and give your water garden a more natural appearance.

7 – Finish edges:

Place stones or boulders around the outer edge to hold the liner in place. For a more natural appearance, strategically graduate the stones up to and over the rim of the pool. Trim any excess liner around the edge so that a 12-inch overlap remains.

8 – Fill with water:

Place a garden hose in the center of the pool and fill with water to within a few inches from the top. As water flows in, smooth out the liner by folding and pleating portions of the material.

9 – Add plants:

Tuck in moisture-loving plants (see sidebar for suggestions) around the outer edges to soften the rocks, then add any aquatic plants to help filter the water and keep algae under control. Water lilies and other floating aquatic blooms should ideally cover 50 percent to 65 percent of the pool surface. Want to add a little life to your project? Goldfish are most suited to a small pool. A koi pool, however, needs to be larger in size—at least 10 feet by 10 feet and ideally 3 to 4 feet deep.

10 – Create a balance:

Maintenance is minimal if you establish a balance of plants, fish, and other aquatic life. In addition to floating plants, each square foot of water surface should support one bunch of submerged (oxygenating) plants, small fish (about two inches in length), and one pond scavenger, such as snails and tadpoles. Add water during summer as needed to maintain the proper level.

Don’t have the time or space to build an outdoor water feature? Bring it indoors with a tabletop fountain. These self-contained fountains come in a variety of soothing designs, and many 
include space for plants. Prices start at under $100. Available at home-improvement and garden-supply centers or online at sites such as amazon.com or simplyfountains.com.

Just Add Water The Saturday Evening Post

They typically live in tough habitats. For survival, they capture scarce nutrients not through soil, but through bugs and, sometimes, larger prey. Carnivorous plants vary greatly in size, shape, and “hunting” method. Below are several examples from the wild world of carnivorous plants. If you would rather skip the info and just watch plants eat stuff, feel free to click on the videos or pictures above each one.

Venus Flytrap

Fortunately for us, no variety of Venus Flytrap is actually big enough to eat people. They are, however, big enough to eat things larger than you would think (see video). Flytraps produce appendages at the end of their leaves that look like a cross between a flower and a butterfly, with eyelash-like things protruding from the sides. Like many carnivorous plants, they attract prey by producing sweet sap. When animals take the bait, they activate small hairs on the appendage that trigger it to snap shut like a bear trap. The “eyelash” projections interlock so that the unfortunate creature is locked in. The snapping mechanism of the flytrap is an example of one of the most unusual plant features in all of nature–rapid plant movement. Unlike slow plant movement, which many plants exhibit (for example, when they turn leaves with the path of the sun), rapid movement is highly specialized and rare. It is also impressive, considering plants have no muscles.

Nepenthes

Star Wars fans might find the Nepenthes interesting, because it reminds one of the Sarlacc, Jabba the Hutt’s favorite means of disposing those who didn’t pay up. Certain species are among the biggest carnivorous plants. For example, the rare Nepenthes attenboroughii (named for British botanist Sir David Attenborough) has, over thousands of years of isolation, become large enough to eat rats! Although there is debate as to whether the plant is designed to eat them or if it happens by accident, the fact that it is big enough to do so is extraordinary. A Nepenthes captures prey by growing large cylindrical “pitcher” leaves that hold sweet smelling fluid. Unfortunately for anything attracted to it, this liquid is not nectar but full of digestive juices. There is little chance for escape, as the interior is coated with smooth wax, making it nearly impossible to gain footing. The motion of struggling animals activates glands that release more digestive enzymes, some of which are so powerful that small insects completely dissolve within hours.

Sundew

Quite possibly the strangest plant I have ever seen, the Sundew, seems like it should be from some strange region of outer space rather than almost every continent on Earth. The plant captures prey with specialized tentacles sticking out of leaves that produce sticky mucilage. Insects attracted to the sweet mucilage soon become hopelessly entangled. Then, the weird stuff happens. The tentacles twist shut, grabbing the animal in a manner that reminds one of an octopus grabbing something out of the sea. This movement is among the fastest examples of thigmotropism, the same behavior exhibited by vines grasping to a host plant. (Note: the videos in this article are embedded directly from YouTube, so we at the Post cannot control the spelling. Obviously, “cornivorous” is not correct.)

Sarracenia

This plant is similar to the Nepenthes in that it can grow quite large and uses a “pitcher” trapping method. However, instead of growing only in the Pacific islands, it can be found across North America (I did not find it reassuring to find that Sarracenia could be growing in my backyard).

In all seriousness, I am not really concerned about it in my yard. I am much more concerned that it is becoming less and less likely to be there, because it is a threatened species. Carnivorous plants in general are especially in jeopardy because, in addition to challenges like habitat loss that many endangered species face, they have unique problems because of their specialized nature. They thrive in areas of low nutrients, and the heavy use of fertilizer is completely changing their environments. Algae blooms and farm runoff have changed the composition of the soil and water that Sarracenia is accustomed to, while other plants, that would have otherwise never been able to survive near Sarracenia, are now crowding them out, and unfortunately, the Sarracenia can not eat them.

Cobra Lily

This California native is essentially an upside down pitcher plant with some unique twists (literally). It is aptly named, as its winding stalk and top strongly resemble the venomous snake. Bugs are drawn to the “head” of the plant, which is shaped slightly like a mushroom with a hole in the bottom. As they crawl in, they become disoriented by what appears to be exits but are really just translucent spots at the top where the sun shines through. Eventually, the bug works its way back to the “neck” of the plant, where inward pointing hairs make a one-way street for the creature (think of the spiked strip at car lots that lets vehicles in but not out). Finally, at the bottom of the neck, there is the “stomach” which has digestive enzymes.

Cephalotus

Although this plant is similar in many ways to other pitcher plants, it is also quite unique. Rather than a swamp or bog, where most carnivorous plants live, it lives in a sandy land of droughts and floods. Rather than large pitchers with pools of water, it has small pitchers designed to keep water out. It lives in one of the most unique habitats in the world – the southwestern tip of Australia, where everything must be adaptable to survive — and it changes its look entirely though the different seasons of the year. It stays dormant in winter, when frosts and floods can occur. When it comes back to life in spring, it has normal photosynthesizing leaves. However, as the dry summer approaches, it produces a second type of leaf – a pitcher leaf. When insects fall in, they are forced down by inward pointing hairs, like in the neck of a Cobra Lily. The Cephalotus, Nepenthes, Sarracenia and Cobra Lily are all unrelated plants that developed a similar method of survival in very different places, a fact that makes one appreciate how effective the pitcher trap is.

Bladderwort

One of the most common and adaptable types of carnivorous plants, the Bladderwort can live underwater or above ground. It works by creating a bean-shaped trap that maintains a pressurized vacuum, with small hairs at the mouth of the trap acting as triggers. When prey touch the hairs, it opens the trap, destroys the vacuum, and is sucked in. Some varieties of Bladderwort are known to live inside of pitcher plants, creating the hungriest symbiosis in the plant kingdom. The video above shows a Cane Toad tadpole with its tale stuck in the Bladderwort’s trap. According to the person who posted the video, the whole tadpole was eventually drawn in and ingested, and that plant singlehandedly captured hundreds of them over just a few days.

A few other notable Carnivorous plants

Butterwort (Wikipedia Commons)

Butterwort: Also known as the flypaper plant, the Butterwort uses sticky leaves to trap fruit flies and other small insects. Buying one of these plants may be a better alternative to using flypaper in your home, because it ingests the bugs and cleans up after itself, rather than flypaper, which retains its collection of dead flies.

Waterwheel (Wikipedia Commons)

Waterwheel: The Waterwheel plant is the aquatic equivalent of the Venus flytrap. It is believed that they are closely related. It uses the same bear-trap mechanism to catch prey, except that it targets tadpoles and larvae rather than fully-grown insects. And you thought the flytrap was weird. If you click on the image to enlarge, you can see the flytrap-like traps arranged in a wheel around the plant stem.

Special thanks to Mike Wenzel Of Atlanta Botanical Gardens.

Hungry, Carnivorous Plants The Saturday Evening Post

Nothing lifts a winter-weary spirit like thriving, green houseplants, which help purify and improve air quality inside your home. However, even seemingly fuss-free plants can get the winter blues if not cared for properly. Here are some tips to keep them happy and healthy this time of year.

Set them up for success. Match your houseplants’ growing needs with their indoor environment. Most plants thrive in sun, so place them in a well-lit area, such as a windowsill, for 
a few hours a day. Flowering plants usually require even more light because the sun is less intense in winter months. Set plants with high-light requirements in bright windows, usually south- or west-facing.

Also, avoid placing houseplants near direct sources of heat (like a heating vent) or cold drafts (like a front door or drafty window).

Let them rest. Most indoor plants’ growth slows in the winter. It’s natural and means less work for you, since such plants require less care. Skip the fertilizer, and water only when the first inch of soil feels dry (roughly every two weeks). If your house suffers from low humidity in winter, lightly (and occasionally) spritz leaves with a spray bottle filled with lukewarm water.

Pampering makes perfect. To keep your plants looking good, moisten a soft rag with tepid water and wipe down leaves to remove built-up dust and grease. Spritz tiny-leafed plants with lukewarm water, which helps leaves better absorb light for photosynthesis and discourage pests.

Lastly, don’t use any plant shine products. They can impair a leaf’s ability to absorb light—critical to their overall health.

Amazing Asparagus

Hailed for its medicinal properties and considered a delicacy, asparagus is a well-known harbinger of spring.

The perennial vegetable takes up to 3 years to produce its delectable, edible shoots. It’s worth the wait: Not only is the plant productive, producing up to 15 years or more of quality produce, but asparagus is packed with vitamins K, A, and C, and a powerhouse of folate and potassium.

Lucky for us, green asparagus can be found at most food markets. Less common varieties, in white and purple hues, might be more expensive and difficult to track down: Look for these rarities in upscale grocers or farmers’ markets.

Perhaps the most attractive trait of asparagus is just how easy it is to prepare. Sautéed, roasted, blanched, grilled, steamed, or stir-fried, this early-season favorite is lovely by itself or when added to omelets, pasta, or salads.

So why wait? Enjoy this easy-to-make recipe today!

Notes from the Field: Winter Houseplant Care and Asparagus The Saturday Evening Post

Check water levels in cut flowers daily.

Check stored produce and flower bulbs for rot, shriveling or excess moisture. Discard damaged material.

Most houseplants require less water in winter months because growth is slowed or stopped. Check soil for dryness before watering.

Move houseplants to brighter windows, but don’t place plants in drafty places or against cold windowpanes.

Early blooms of spring-flowering bulbs can make good gifts for a sweetheart. Keep the plant in a bright, cool location for longer-lasting blooms. Forced bulbs make poor garden flowers and should be discarded as blooms fade.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Choose appropriate species and cultivars of plants, and begin drawing landscaping plans.

Cut branches of forsythia, pussy willow, crabapple, quince, honeysuckle, and other early spring-flowering plants to force into bloom indoors. Place the branches in warm water and set them in a cool location.

Check mulches, rodent shields, salt/wind screens and other winter plant protection to make sure they are still in place.

Prune landscape plants, except early spring bloomers, which should be pruned after flowers fade. Birches, maples, dogwoods and other heavy sap bleeders can be pruned in early summer to avoid the sap flow, although bleeding is not harmful to the tree.

Fruit trees also should be pruned now.

GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)

Order seeds before it’s too late for this year’s planting. (Check out the sources we love.)

Sketch garden plans, including plants to replace or replant crops that are harvested in spring or early summer.

Prepare or repair lawn and garden tools for the upcoming season.

Start seeds indoors for cool-season vegetables so they will be ready for transplanting to the garden early in the season. Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage seeds should be started five to seven weeks prior to transplanting.

Test leftover garden seed for germination. Place 10 seeds between moist paper toweling or cover with a thin layer of soil. Keep seeds warm and moist. If less than six seeds germinate, then fresh seed should be purchased.

B. Rosie Lerner is the Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist at Purdue University, West Lafayette.

January Notes: Home, Yard, and Garden The Saturday Evening Post