The United States Forest Service manages a whopping 193 million acres of land, including scenic byways, wetlands, grasslands, and forests.
But only one tropical rainforest.
If you love the idea of exploring a wilderness brimming with lush greenery and unique animals, but don’t want to hoof it all the way to the Amazon jungle, Puerto Rico’s El Yunque National Forest might be the perfect vacation spot for you.
History of El Yunque National Forest
El Yunque National Forest — pronounced Yoon-Kay — is located in Puerto Rico’s Northeast Region, in the Rio Grande neighborhood. Rio Grande is about a 40-minute drive from the San Juan airport and has a quieter vibe than its more well-known and livelier neighbor. Flying into San Juan from Miami takes about two-and-a-half hours, so it’s an easy trip that feels like a big adventure, even though you’re not leaving the United States. Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory, so U.S. citizens don’t need a passport, there’s no currency exchange, and your U.S. cell phone plan will work.

The United States took over the 28,000 acres of land that is present-day El Yunque National Forest when it acquired the island of Puerto Rico from Spain in 1898. After the completion of the Panama Canal in 1908, the U.S. turned its attention to developing the forest and granting it status as protected land. Most of the development took place in the 1930s as part of the efforts of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). Part of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal, the CCC was designed to provide relief from the strains of the Great Depression by creating jobs for young men ages 18-25. CCC crews worked to develop trails and build roads, bridges, and structures in U.S. parklands before the organization disbanded in 1942 when the United States entered World War II. Many of the roads forged by the CCC in the pre-war era are still used today.

Although CCC-built structures vary by location, crews utilized the available materials, such as local timber and stone. The distinctive style of craftsmanship is often referred to as “parkitecture.”


Flora and Fauna
Even though El Yunque is relatively small, it is one of the U.S.’s most biodiverse National Forests. Home to over 240 species of native trees, 23 of which are unique to this location, El Yunque also hosts more than 50 species of native orchids and 150 species of ferns. Plant species have been introduced to the forest, both intentionally and by accident. The most well-known and most invasive purposeful introduction of a non-native plant is bamboo, which was used to help control erosion of the roads. While it has succeeded in doing that, the bamboo has grown beyond its intended area, requiring regular removal.

The forest’s wildlife includes snakes, lizards, birds, and the coquí frog, native to Puerto Rico. This tiny frog makes a unique “koh-kee” noise at night and can be heard around the island.
The sound of the coquí frog (Uploaded to YouTube by Discover Puerto Rico)
How to Explore El Yunque National Forest
Factors like weather, ability, and time are in play when deciding the best way to explore the forest. If you have more than one day, love high adventure, and enjoy good weather, you can set out on foot, hitting the 24 miles of hiking trails and taking in the scenery from the forest’s highest point, El Toro peak. The El Toro trail, built by the CCC, is a steep, challenging five-mile loop trail with an elevation of 3,500 feet above sea level. If you don’t feel like navigating such a strenuous trail, climb the 98 steps to the top of Yokahú Tower instead. The observation deck sits at 15,000 feet above sea level, which still provides spectacular views of the forest, the ocean, and El Toro if the weather is clear.

El Yunque is also easy to explore by car, making it an accessible adventure for almost anyone. The best of both worlds is to tour the forest by car or tour van, stopping for short hikes, climbing the two observation towers, and, of course, taking advantage of nearly endless photo opportunities.

When to Visit and What to Bring
Puerto Rico is a year-round destination, but the best time to visit El Yunque is from early December to late April. The crowds are manageable and the weather is mild, if you don’t mind it a little warm and humid. Hurricane season in the Caribbean runs from early June to late November, with peak season from mid-August through late October. You can find cheap travel deals during this time if you’re willing to be flexible and commit to watching the weather ahead of your trip.
Wear lightweight, breathable clothes and have sturdy footwear that can stand up to all day walking. More technical trail shoes and trekking poles are suited to serious hikers tackling the more challenging trails. And don’t forget the rain in rainforest. El Yunque gets rain three out of four days, so dress like you’re going to get wet because you probably will. The surface water in the forest isn’t safe to consume, so pack in your own H2O or bring along a means to purify your drinking water.

When to Consider a Commercial Tour Provider

If you’ve rented a car in San Juan, stopping at the must-see spots mentioned above is easy. Still, a commercial tour provider will help you dig into the forest’s history and ecology more thoroughly. Sometimes, it’s more relaxing to let someone else drive while you’re touring so you can give your full attention to the surroundings.
If you plan to explore the longer, more strenuous hiking trails, I recommend obtaining the services of a commercial guide. While maps of El Yunque’s trails are available, many may be inaccurate. Category 4 Hurricane Maria, which hit the island in 2017, altered El Yunque’s terrain. If you’re looking at an older map, you might attempt to tackle a trail that no longer exists or is unsafe. A local guide who works in the forest daily will have the most up-to-date information and be able to help you assess which trails are within your group’s ability and comfort level.
I’ve used SALTours Puerto Rico, which works with nearby Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Puerto Rico and other resorts near the forest, and I recommend it as a solid introduction to El Yunque. If you want to go it alone, the Hyatt’s activities desk is staffed with personnel familiar with the forest, which is eight miles from the resort. They can also give trail and route recommendations. The forest’s main website also maintains a list of alerts and warnings, including trail and facility closures.


Visitors spending two full days exploring the forest can see the bulk of El Yunque, and a nice compromise may be to spend a half day with a guide and then set out on your own once you’re oriented. If you’re fully committed to a DIY tour, stop at El Portal, a newly renovated visitor/interpretive center inside the forest, and speak to a ranger. Build in some time to look around El Portal — there’s a gift shop where you can get your National Parks Passport stamped, an interpretive center, and a Puerto Rican parrot habitat. If you’re lucky and patient, you might spot one of these endangered birds in the wild. An estimated 300 Puerto Rican parrots live in the forest; they match the lush tropical foliage perfectly, so they’re tricky to spot.
Whether you’re looking for a relaxing tour or a more high-adrenaline activity, the U.S. Forest Service’s only tropical rainforest offers something for just about every speed. All you need is a plane ticket.
Become a Saturday Evening Post member and enjoy unlimited access. Subscribe now